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Wales
by Joske Vermeule, September 1
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Forums39
Topics49,911
Posts838,142
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Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 122
L - Learner Plates On
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L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 122 |
Great service as ever Simon.
Jads
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Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,095 Likes: 75
Talk Morgan Expert
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Talk Morgan Expert
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 2,095 Likes: 75 |
From the days when I played with bikes and their brakes, I understand that the pad should bit on most, but not all, of the surface of the disc, about 2/3mm unused each side.
The pad should never, ever, extend above the edge of the disc.
That sounds like excellent practice of course but just in case people get worried about this from looking at their own, page 162 of Dave W’s book refers to Caparo callipers causing a ridge of unworn pad material build up on the outer edges, which needs to be regularly chamfered back! When I read that, I immediately checked my own, and it was certainly true for mine. Yet another Morgan “thing”.
Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon
1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,149 Likes: 19
Has a lot to Say!
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OP
Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,149 Likes: 19 |
The Astom Martin pads also fit the calipers as SiFab says give the right offset, thank you SiFab we are now sorted. Mintex MGB 522 pads as fitted to Astom Martin/Volvo You can see the material offset and the pads are larger. ![[Linked Image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51132134022_7c5f0349b9_3k.jpg) DSC_0627 by Robert & Ali Davies, on Flickr ![[Linked Image]](https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51133583089_16a7964856_3k.jpg) DSC_0634 by Robert & Ali Davies, on Flickr
Morgans 1934 MX, 1947 Series 1, 1956 +4 TR4, 2000 +4 T16
Triumph Herald 1969 13/60
Morris 1970
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Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,616 Likes: 143
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 1,616 Likes: 143 |
Rob
Just a point - how are the 5 hub retaining nuts secured?
They don't appear to have been cente popped after doing them up?
You really really don't want them working loose!
Arwyn
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,415
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,415 |
Rob
Just a point - how are the 5 hub retaining nuts secured?
They don't appear to have been cente popped after doing them up?
You really really don't want them working loose!
Arwyn He didn't need to undo them so that's as they left the factory....
Simon @ Sifab.co.uk
Sifabtemporary@gmail.com
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,149 Likes: 19
Has a lot to Say!
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OP
Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,149 Likes: 19 |
The Nuts are Dot Punched to the bolts so I guess whenever they are removed its new nuts and bolts? As SiFab says they are as factory...Discs had little wear so no need to change just yet...
oh and the little wear was due to grease contamination from the leaking oiler on the king pins...
Morgans 1934 MX, 1947 Series 1, 1956 +4 TR4, 2000 +4 T16
Triumph Herald 1969 13/60
Morris 1970
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Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 5,608 Likes: 617
Charter Member
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Charter Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 5,608 Likes: 617 |
Unless you feel the need to renew the nuts and bolts as 'lifed' then a touch on the pop mark with a small drill and they should undo fine .... on reassembly just pop in a different place .... there may be people come on and say change everything, but that's worked fine for me over the years.
K
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9,554 Likes: 134
Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 9,554 Likes: 134 |
Threadlock was the go-to and included in Haynes manual procedures. Loctite was a popular one with different grades covering basic hold and “ Jesus, pass me the LONG socket bar”.
Repopping is a simple added hold mechanism though. Worth doing.
Plus Four MY23 Furka Rouge
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