Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 M3W project car progress report

As promised an update on the project car purchased to be upgraded during lockdown. It took a little longer than expected to find a car but a 2012 model arrived and work began, stripping it all apart, about a month ago.

I have started rebuilding now and the work to date includes :-

The full cush drive upgrade giving improved strength, better sealing, a better ride and most importantly inserts that can be replaced in half an hour by the owner. New improved (specially made) fasteners have been used throughout. The counter shaft bearing has been replaced with one with proper seals from SKF. I have fitted a new heavy duty clutch plate and pilot bearing. The flywheel and pressure plate are good as new.

The chassis and swinging arm have been cleaned and every visible hole has been sealed from ingress of water and air - rendering it rust proof internally. The original coating is very poor - especially in the areas around the engine and rear wheel where the atmosphere is most aggressive. The tubes have also had linseed oil injected inside to help with rust proofing. These vulnerable areas have also been painted externally with a coat of tractor undercoat and then engine enamel.

The early chassis are prone to cracking and this one has the bolt in triangulating brace at the top and even though there was no sign of cracking, I have silver brazed reinforcing cuffs around the tubes at the bottom. This not only makes the tubes stronger but the red heat required for the process stress relieves the assembly.

The rear wheel bearings have been replaced with ones from SKF and the taper roller bearings in the swinging arm have been replaced and properly greased - they are assembled dry from new and tend to show signs of rust at an early stage due to the near side dust shield having been omitted. I have fashioned and fitted a recessed dust shield which does not clash with the bevel box sprocket. I have cleaned and re-installed the swinging arm trunnions with copious amounts of copper slip anti seize compound and they are drilled and wired for security. The prop-shaft was removed to allow greasing and the hardy spicer joints were properly purged. The bevel box front oil seal has been renewed and the rough turned shaft, where it runs, polished in the lathe to be sure it does not leak in future. The bevel box oil has been changed. The bevel box is still mounted direct to the chassis which is by far the best option.

Both sprockets are in place for the new chain final drive which will be installed once the new, laser cut, stainless steel mudguard stays are here and fitted.

The brake/clutch fluid has been changed and the rear wheel slave cylinder greased up with red vegetable grease to prevent corrosion. All the brake linings and pads were inspected and found to be good.

The cooling fan has been removed - the nonsensical plastic housing dumped and the fan mounted in the grille at the front of the bonnet. This achieves much better natural airflow between the cylinders where heat tends to build up and also pulls air from under the bonnet cooling the oil tank as it passes.

A new Harley Davidson voltage regulator/rectifier has been fitted and sited on the bodywork in front of the passengers feet where it benefits from much reduced vibration. A separate earth direct to the engine earth strap has been installed.

The fuel pump has been replaced with a new Walbro one and the fuel filter is also new. The engine oil has been changed for Duckhams original green 20/50 (call me old fashioned if you will) and a new oil filter with hex release installed. The hex release will make changing the filter so much easier next time.

Front tyre and tubes are new from Blockley and the rear tyre is the latest Michelin Cross Climate. The old front tubes were carefully inspected to ensure no cutting by the spoke nipples is taking place, this sometimes occurs but not on this machine.

Minor mods include fitting a panel edge trim where the body panel cuts in to the leather at the top of the seat back, painting that annoying bit of the front hub which is visible through the wheel spokes and which is usually rusty. Loose rivnuts have all been tightened and copper slip used on the screws which fit in them.

Just waiting now for a new air filter and timing belt and I should be able to get the rest of the car ready for some test driving before putting it up for sale. Oh, and I might just wash and polish it - not my strong point but I’ll try!

Hopefully the video will be out soon.

Thanks for the update Phil. I envy the lucky buyer who buys this better-than-new vehicle from you!

A great check list for owners to aspire to.

this summer the centa upgrade is on my wish list!

Thanks , very good explanation .



Stefan

Hi Phil
Do you have a link for where you get your tractor undercoat.
Thanks

https://tools-paint.com/tractol-816-primer-undercoat-1l-4015-p.asp

I use the black - it dries almost invisible on the original coating if you just want to do a bit of touching up.