Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Re-adjusting SSL front suspension

I've got the spacer below my stub axles to give a low ride height on my 4/4 and it works fine, I never have any bottoming out. I was originally a bit concerned that I might have contact between the top of the tyre and the underside of the wing stay, but it's never happened despite caning it up and down some of the roughest roads the UK has to offer. My engine is pretty light though, so if the Plus 4 engines are heavier it might not work so well in that configuration.

When I fitted 195/65 R15 tyres to my Plus 4 I wanted to maintain the original ride height. I was in the UK for a visit and Peter very kindly fitted a set of 1mm shims from the race kit to my car. I have 10 shims (10mm) under the stub axle and 10 shims above.

Sorry to revive this last year thread but I needed to adjust my SSL RS spring pre-load the other day. Whether it was initially wrong or had settled in after nearly 6,000 miles I cannot say but there was as much as 10mm of rebound spring play depending where the stub axle sat on drivers side when static.

Now the initial setup calls for drop tests to find the static ride height median and with shocks not re-fitted. This is the method I used without removing them.

Take car for run to loosen everything up. With car on level ground, tank half full, kingpins just greased, feel and measure free play in rebound spring each side assuming there is some. Jack up and remove each wheel to gain easy access to main spring locking collars. Release top ring slightly using the two C spanners, then using one to hold threaded sleeve in position at top, wind down lower ring slightly less than rebound spring play previously measured for each side. Leave locking rings loose and temporarily replace wheels, just gently tightening spinner if you have them or wheel nuts. Lower wheels to ground and check for play/movement in rebound springs. As most aware this should be such that its just possible to turn rebound spring with absolutely no play. Repeat checks a couple of times jacking and lowering to get consistency. If pre-load collar needs further adjustment it's back to removing wheel(s) and adjusting. Then repeat checks on rebound. When satisfied very carefully jack car up very slightly (just a few mm) and check you cannot turn rebound springs. When happy jack up, tighten locking collars against lower without altering pre-load, replace and tighten wheels and lower.

FWIW the SSL instructions suggest a starting point of 35-40mm for Roadster with spacer below axle. My passenger side just required a couple of mm tightening of pre-load leaving gap between collars of 40mm. The drivers side several mm more leaving gap at close to 44mm. If you mainly drive alone you may want to simulate using suitable weight in drivers seat whilst making adjustments.

When finished take car for test drive. The improvement I noticed was in the ride, less so the roll resistance since that had always seemed good. When adjusted correctly the suspension movement on rebound is checked to a great degree by the stiff rebound springs so far less jolting over bumps.

Richard, thanks for the reminder, it's about time I checked mine

Richard, have found the same as you, passenger side was spot on but the drivers side rebound spring had developed a gap of around 7mm

When last checked it was correct so they must 'settle', not helped by the shocking condition of some of our roads I suspect

Does anyone have the C spanner size? I need to get some TIA

So we both need to go on a diet

How do you measure a C spanner?

As best as I can measure it, it's a 60mm diameter.

I think 60mm is too big. You will need two of them and they should have been supplied by whoever fitted the suspension. I tried to purchase a pair but struggled to get the right size so went back to Berrybrook and they supplied the correct ones.

Logically I guess, the answer is to measure the diameter of the adjuster collars.

Or give Dan White a call at SSL.