Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing P4 won't start

I've disconnected and swapped my ecu many times and never had a problem. For the first few seconds after restarting the engine tends to idle a little fast and the sound of the ICV adjusting/optimising can be a bit disconcerting.

I find myself with a similar problem ...

My 2005 Plus 4 has been outside under a cover for three months while the garage was rebuilt. It would normally sit inside with a battery conditioner attached. Much to my surprise the car started first time ... but absolutely refuses to start again. I've plugged in the battery conditioner and left the battery to charge up overnight, but still all I can get is a weak "chattering" noise.

Pouring with rain this morning, so avoiding lifting bonnet but would appreciate a pointer about what's next.

Try putting a voltmeter across the battery whilst someone turns the engine over, if the volts collapse there is a good chance your battery is shot.

If you are on your own just turning the headlights on will have a similar effect after a short while.

If the volts stay high check your earth strap on the engine.

Welcome to TM Andrew, it looks like desperation drove you here

Hi Rich, thanks for your reply. Now [a] to actually locate battery (behind seat or from beneath) and then [b] buy/borrow test meter.

Hesitant to try bump or jump start and afraid that such old fashioned procedures no longer appropriate and electronic vulnerable.

Have at least pushed P4 into garage and will attempt limbo manoeuvre to look underneath … tomorrow!

Cheers — Andy

Is it feasible to replace battery without a lift? I might just be capable of slithering in beneath static car. I’d never attempt going under a jacked up car. Looking for suitable piece of old carpet to use as a sliding mat! This rather simple problem is proving a nuisance to fix.

If your battery is behind the seats, and a two seater...
With the seat fully forward, the battery comes out through the vertical panel cover plate hole.
By removing the tool tray and the aluminium cover plate you can access both terminals, and both clamp nuts.

As Dave says above, don't forget to remove the Negative lead first and isolate it with a bit of dry rag for safeties sake.
Good luck, it's a bit of a wriggle but works.

if you don't have the ally plate you will need to jack up the car to get it out underneath. You don't need to be underneath you can move it from above but you should use axle stands to be safe.

I understand this problem has been solved with a new battery. Worth bearing in mind new ones are transported dry charged without the acidic electrolyte for obvious reasons. Adding fresh electrolyte at full concentration and waiting an hour or so should leave them close to a full charge but far better to be patient and then fully charge them before use though.

Following on from above a new battery will start ageing as soon as electrolyte is added so beware of any that may have been on the suppliers shelf for some time in this state. A check on date of manufacture may help. We never added electrolyte until POS for counter sales back in the day.

Thanks for the comments and advice.

After a fair bit of searching, removal of plywood panels and taking photos underneath, I found myself unable to remove the battery unaided and reluctantly opted for a home start from my breakdown insurer. There was no access from above, no vertical "ally" panel and I just couldn't quite get myself under the car to lower the battery.

But, of course, it started first turn with a jump start using the starter motor terminal. I then slightly nervously drove direct to my Morgan dealer where my P4 now resides awaiting a new battery.

This is my first mechanical/electrical problem after eight years of ownership, so perhaps not too bad; but these insights into Morgan construction and the variability are not what one might call 100% positive!!

All best, Andrew
2005 Plus 4