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Originally Posted by HJF
Morgan handbooks can be confusing. A toque value for knock on wire wheels is not normally given but one for conventional stud mounted wheels is. Are we sure that 110Nm is not just for conventional bolt on wheel lug nuts, I suspect it could be; please check.


110nm is about 80 lbs/ft which is correct for alloy wheel nuts, the spinners need a bit more than that


Simon @ Sifab.co.uk

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Roger* Offline OP
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Thanks everyone for all the replies and good advice.

I have been in touch with Oakmere at Northwich and of course they are keen to sort it so our beautiful Morgan is going back today to Oakmere for the second time in as many weeks.

Hard to describe how disappointed we are. Having owned a Lotus Elan for 27 years, sold in 2007, I had a hankering for a fun car again and a Morgan was, for us, the perfect answer.

Fingers crossed that Oakmere sort it!

Thanks again
Roger

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Originally Posted by Deejay
Originally Posted by Roger*
Hi Andymot. Yes I checked the wheel nuts and I presume Oakmere also checked them and they seem ok. How do Morgan owners tighten the wheel nuts? The hammer and spanner provided are ok but the manual recommends a torque of 110Nm so I have purchased a suitable socket (70mm) and will check the nuts with a torque wrench. Roger

Suggest that before tightening the nuts, remove each wheel first and ensure that the splines and conical contact areas at the rear of the wheel hubs are generously greased. It works for me.


Roger. Deejay's advice is good. Matter of interest: my Roadster (still just in warranty at the time) had a "clonk" on pull-away, "clonk" on braking. Dealer put it down to a fault in the diff and contacted the factory for authorisation to investigate. MMC wouldn't let the dealer touch the diff, and asked for the car to be returned to the factory. I took it myself. Mark Baldwin (MMC service manager I think) took it in personally and went through it. (He was not at all impressed with the dealer's analysis!) Eventual diagnosis? Insufficient grease (as Deejay describes) and insufficient tightening. Even now the "clonk" comes back occasionally, and I know to scrupulously clean the splines on both hub and wheel - removing all old grease - and then re-grease well, including the conical inboard section. Then tighten well (Mark Baldwin recommended a "dead-blow" hammer), and all should be well. Ignore all suggestions that the wheels "self-tighten"!

Hope this might be helpful.


Nick
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Be careful I know one CX chassis driver lost a wheel to under tightened nuts. I know it sounds daft but are they the right handed threads to self tighten. MMC haven't put them on the wrong side?


JohnV6
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Originally Posted by John V6
Be careful I know one CX chassis driver lost a wheel to under tightened nuts. I know it sounds daft but are they the right handed threads to self tighten. MMC haven't put them on the wrong side?


I stand to be corrected John - but surely that's not possible? You can't get a left-hand-threaded nut onto a right-hand-threaded hub. Unless I'm missing something?


Nick
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Originally Posted by vincentvg
Originally Posted by John V6
Be careful I know one CX chassis driver lost a wheel to under tightened nuts. I know it sounds daft but are they the right handed threads to self tighten. MMC haven't put them on the wrong side?


I stand to be corrected John - but surely that's not possible? You can't get a left-hand-threaded nut onto a right-hand-threaded hub. Unless I'm missing something?


I think John's suggesting checking they haven't fitted the hubs on the wrong side.


"Y mae dafad ddu ym mhob praidd"
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Roger* Offline OP
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Thanks again everyone.
Nick, the problem you describe sounds very familiar yet when I talked to Oakmere they were certain it wasn’t the wheels but I am beginning to wonder now.

I have recorded the sound it is making, it is not the best recording as it is just my iPad on the shelf behind the seat but does capture the sound if rather faintly. I have sent this to MMC to see what they think but if anyone knows how to post an audio file on TM it would be interesting to gather people’s thoughts on it. It is only 20s.

The wheel nuts are conveniently labelled ‘left’ and ‘right’ with the left one being the right handed thread so I turn it anti-clockwise to undo.

Roger

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Roger* Offline OP
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Hi
Can't seem to post audio files on TM so have created a video in youtube, it is just a static pic of my car with 20s of audio.

Here is the link - just cut and past to your browser.

https://youtu.be/JFUoUxyfCz4

The car is slowing down to a standstill, probably only doing about 20mph at the start of the audio, the car is in auto comfort mode.

Would be interested in peoples observations on this.

Many thanks
Roger

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TBH that doesn't sound like a wheel loose on splines, more like something knocking on wood or tub possibly, as to me it sounds a bit hollow? Can you take the rear parcel tray completely out like you can with a trad?


Tim H.
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Roger* Offline OP
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Hi Tim
The rear shelf is part of the chassis. There is a panel at the back that can be removed but it only reveals a small space. I agree it sounds sort of hollow, Oakmere seem to be thinking it is an issue in the drive chain somewhere but yesterday Oakmere starting talking about it possibly being a ‘Morgan Feature’ which worried me.
Roger

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