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#719532 27/09/21 02:52 PM
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Hi Everyone,

Last weekend I shot at a few clays and as is my norm cleaned and oiled my shooting implement when I got home.
For years I’ve followed the same procedure ending with a light oiling of the metal bits and beeswax on the wood.
Now here’s the thing, I never get oil on the wood since eventually it will blacken and go soft.

So, what danger to our cars’ wood when lubing the beading strips?


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None as far as I know


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The Morgan wood is ash, not something used when crafting a fine shotgun, I feel. Wood for a gun stock is often walnut, or something similar.

The Morgan ash frame has already been soaked in cuprinol and white spirit.
I suspect that light machine oil will keep the wood waterproof and discourage corrosion in the adjacent metal. Even so, I use ACF 50 when I "oil the beading".

Peter


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I've always been happy enough to carry out the instructions in the MMC car handbook to use a light machine oil and I choose 3 in 1 as it has a plastic not scratching spout and is a handy sized container.
No reason to doubt the factories wisdom on it's usage really.


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Originally Posted by +8Rich
I've always been happy enough to carry out the instructions in the MMC car handbook to use a light machine oil and I choose 3 in 1 as it has a plastic not scratching spout and is a handy sized container.
No reason to doubt the factories wisdom on it's usage really.

This might cause some controversy. I used to use 3 in 1 oil on my beading, but got told to never ever ever use it as it rots rubber, a should be using a natural oil. I've switched to using Danish oil as I have a good amount of that. My handbook recommends a light oil as opposed to a light machine oil.


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Danish oil, though good as a wood finish, is a hard drying oil so I question whether it is the right thing to use bearing in mind the flexibility of the Morgan chassis and tub. Think a better choice would be a silicon based oil which is produced by 3 in 1 and others.
As far as damage to rubber is concerned, it all depends on the formulation of the “rubber” component. Just try finding that out!


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Natural rubber is affected by mineral oils. The self sealing tanks of spitfires etc had a natural latex rubber called Linatex in a layer around the fuel tank. If a leak occurred due to a bullet hole the latex expands and seals it.

htts://www.global.weir/newsroom/news-articles/five-unconventional-applications-where-linatex-rubber-stands-the-test-of-time/#:~:text=Famously%2C%20Linatex%20%C2%AE%20rubber%20was%20used%20to%20line,it%20prevented%20fuel%20leakages%20and%20the%20resulting%20fires.

The rubber beading on the mog will be a synthetic rubber that isn't affected by mineral oil.


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ACF 15 is the stuff to use. It is supplied to the aviation industry so it is safe for Morgans. It's around £15.00 for an aerosol and avaiable from most motor bike shops.


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On a similar note, does anyone actually lubricate their spoked wheels ?
Mine are stainless, but I recall seeing specialists apparently offering stove-enamelling and painting services, surely that locks the spokes solid ?
Everything you ever wanted to know about wire wheels is here: https://www.truespoke.com/frequent-wire-wheel-questions


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Originally Posted by Leroy
Originally Posted by +8Rich
I've always been happy enough to carry out the instructions in the MMC car handbook to use a light machine oil and I choose 3 in 1 as it has a plastic not scratching spout and is a handy sized container.
No reason to doubt the factories wisdom on it's usage really.

This might cause some controversy. I used to use 3 in 1 oil on my beading, but got told to never ever ever use it as it rots rubber, a should be using a natural oil. I've switched to using Danish oil as I have a good amount of that. My handbook recommends a light oil as opposed to a light machine oil.

I re-beaded our Caterham when I rebuilt it. Seem to recall it was a PVC like material. Car has gone now but I think I still have an offcut in the garage. If I can find it I will do a soak test on some samples to see if it’s affected.

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