Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 OIL TANK

Hello everyone
I'm reading the forum to get to know the 3W better and make whatever changes you think are good, but I couldn't find anything on the oil tank.

[img]https://photos.app.goo.gl/4oViNMbTvpmLfL146[/img]


As you can see in the photo I replaced the original battery with a Marelli lithium ion which I placed in a trunk at the passenger's feet.
I would like to save some more space to store a toolbox.
I would like to turn the oil tank over to bring in the top 2 hoses from the front. Because the space under the hood is fair but it must be fine and I think the curve of the pipes will be more logical. I would just have the outlet of the engine oil return pipe below to desolder and put it the other way around. I don't think emptying the tank on the other side is a problem. I wanted to know if any of you have already made this change or if you think this change is a bad idea that could cause damages.

Seeing the inside I think the oil tank is aluminum but this remains to be confirmed. I don't want to scratch it until I find out if you think this change is causing damages or not.

As in my area it is quite hot in the summer and the engine cooling fan comes on as soon as you walk in a walk. To better cool the oil tank (I wanted to know if someone had already made a hatch to open or close depending on the weather in the sheet metal between the hood and the radiator grille? Can this opening create too much overpressure in the compartment? to evacuate the hot air, you must have louvers at the back of the hood or simply place small spacers at the two corners of the hood?

Thank you in advance for your answers and your help good day everyone

I can't comment on turning the oil tank around but regarding the cooling fan, as soon as the engine is hot the cooling fan comes on whenever the vehicle speed is below 10 mph / 16kph so what you describe is normal.

Thank you Chris99 I did not know that turning on the fan was linked to the speed I thought it was linked only to the temperature

Before you do this, check the available space in front of the oil tank as there may not be as much as you think! For instance, I recently had a problem with the HT leads chafing on the metal lip on the underside of the cowl.

I would be concerned about the angle of dangle for those hoses as Bunny says watch out for chafing on the cowl. You may well have to move the tank back a smidge to ensure the hoses flow neatly and don't chafe negating any gain in space.

I had a custom oil tank made with all hoses entering at the bottom of the tank. The return and vent lines have stand pipes so they enter the very upper part of the tank. I also added a tank drain plug, which my 2012 car did not have originally.

The new tank is also longer, giving more oil capacity, and made of heavier gauge alloy so more robust. The three smaller black caps that appear to be on the upper side of the tank (1rst photo) are actually the brake/clutch reservoir caps, btw.

Anyone who custom makes oil tanks for motorcycles should be able to help you here.

Thanks Steve - looks good... might be worth adding a cap / insulating tape over the +ve terminal (bottom L of tank). I'd never come across a non-battery positive terminal before (would have expected an earth terminal for sure)!

Put a cover on it regardless of the tank.

Added an insulating boot to that terminal quite some time ago. That is a picture from my first year of owning the car.

Thank you Bitsobrits this assembly is very clean and seems very logical and limits the risk of friction of the pipes