Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Corrosion Running Board Strips and Fixings

Good point, which I am well aware of - and I will inspect (and report!) from time to time. As I said I have applied some anti-corrosive paste (perhaps ACF50 is a good idea?) on each screw. The screws I have put in have a smaller diameter than the original coach bolts, so hopefully there is not much - if any - contact between the SS of the screw and the alu of the running board. The most SS/alu contact will be between the screw head and the alu strip, and that should be easy to observe. We'll see.

If there are signs of corrosion I will consider monel pop rivets, meant for sailing boat rigs. I have found them with a diameter of 3,2 mm, so it should be possible. Not so keen on riveting though, not the gentlest of tools.

Anyone considered Aluminium Rivnuts with greased stainless bolts which do not have direct contact with wing metal.?

I used lots of waxoyl on my last car.

A little bit of drift here but...I visited the factory during the week and saw quite a few new Plus Fours in the car park. What surprised me was that several had noticeable scuff marks on the running boards. Are these models more difficult to egress?

Thanks for posting the pics Gordon. There is no arguing with your logic re nylon washers or the application of goo.

Went out to the garage and jacked the old thing up to provide a glimpse of the reality of the underside of my SS wheel fixings after circa 20 years untouched... When I first purchased my Mog and saw the exposed threads, I was less than impressed, for in normal circumstances exposed threads attract crud and can make it all the more awkward to remove the nut, though as can be seen ( I hope) the threads are none to cruddy and a quick rub with a small wire brush and they clean up fine, a squirt ow WD 40 then the wisdom of exposed threads comes into play for the Morganeer working solo... ?

It can be difficult to reach round with a screwdriver while spannering the nut, however with the judicial use of a pair of pliers one can hold the threads to stop the screw from turning whilst initially loosening the nut and which can work a treat.... I suspect there are many alternative methods, but that one worked well enough for me when I removed the wing on the other side of the Mog.

Looking at the pic I really should wash and polish the two pack lacquer on that inner wing... sigh! (-:

On my Cx500 with sidecar I have fixed a plate of cheap aluminium plate with ssteal bolts.

After 3 winters with a lot of salt in Norway the aluminium plate looked like puff pastr y

The hire cars have PPF fitted on the running boards (or did) so easy enough to replace occasionally.
Few of the hirers are familiar with ingress/egress of a Morgan.

That might explain it; these were all parked in the new lean-to to the right of the path in to reception.

Easily said I know but refitting treads before any corrosion has taken place has paid off for me. The prompt apart from postings on TM was seeing a Roadster just a few years older than mine at first FolkMog event attended with very signifcant bubbling of paint on running boards.

The argument that stainless and aluminium don't play nicely together is indisputable but have found that greased fixings essentially stop any interaction for the greater good.