Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Piping

Gizmo .... mine's been competed all its life so maybe the valance has been mutilated and discarded at some point in its carreer .... I'm not going to hunt one down and fit it, so the water-trap concern still stands for me.

As for ongoing rust/rot proofing .... members flow some rustproofer along the beading annually so it can wick between the various joins ......
As to whether to use '3 in1' or 'ACF50' is the stuff wars are caused by!! 😁

K

I have seen some stapled to the wood parts. Use heavy duty stainless staples. Other's have carpet tacks.never seems to sit tidy if slid ln after.

I've spoken to Dave Kreisel who supplied the beading. He advises warming it first especially at the corners. Fixing it in place with tape and/or staples but fitting slightly "in" so that the beading slopes downward slightly. Then when the wing is offered up it makes a really tight fit against the bodywork. Also at the end cut longer and then cut the core back so as you have enough of the covering to wrap around the end to make a neat end and the core is covered. If you have the standard black moulded beading this is not relevant, only for a covered core

K.
I'm sure the beading is there just to cover up any gaps between panels so if you have no rear valence there's no point. The ally rear panel is folded around the wooden crossmember so is still a water trap whether there is a valence there or not. I'll make sure there's lots of sealer squirted in that area. Thanks for pointing that out.
I've not come across ACF50 before. I could ask whats so special about it but it sounds like this post could get long! I'll look it up.

My 'intuition' was to set it slightly in, then let the light tension as it was sandwiched in place keep it snug .... good to hear that wasn't a stupid thought.

Will be tacking it in place where possible ... though I guess on later makes of cars which just have steel panel to steel.panel piping with no handy wood frame this wouldn't be an option.

K

Finally getting round to bolting the wings on (a large swarm of pre-winter chores attacked me and it took a week to fight them off)

Is there any chance someone can take a close up of the piping where it finishes at the front of the car at the bonnet? ...... none of my pre-stripdown pics cover that, so I'm interested in exactly where it terminates and how the end of the covered piping is dealt with.

Many Thanks

K

Here are a couple of pictures of mine. The piping at the cowl is bent back into itself to produce a chamfer, while the piping at the wing looks as if it was cut to a taper and then any left-over bits covered with heat-shrink tubing. Or maybe that was a previous owner's mod ?

Many Thanks m'Lord ..... that answers a few questions!! 🙂

K

K, just to add a bit of confusion, this is the method chosen by Kevin, when he restored what was his Mog at the time, now mine... It seems to have lasted the test of my circa 20 years of ownership and circa 28k miles..

OK, OK, so it is not the original method but hopefully has restricted the ability of the bottom of the bulkhead to rot away quietly unseen.... I hope !!!

I also hope this does not generate a visit or rebuke from the "faithful" (-:

Cheers Luddite ..... I shall be visiting Ewan before too much longer for some more Soudal Carbond ..... sealing round the perimeter of the wing between the piping, across the bottom of the bulkhead and aling the valance will be the first job !! .... looks like the handling of the end of the piping is similar to that used on His Lordship's car .


K

You’re welcome to come round past and have a close look at the piping on my car Keith, I presume they’re all the same. On another note, I’m sure I have stainless staples too if you’d like, they fit an air gun and if you don’t have one, I’d be happy to lend it to you.