Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Frozen bolt! Advice?

I too think it is conventional thread, righty tighty.

Maybe it should have been a left hand thread due to crank rotation direction but it's not. This is why some earlier adopters of this engine suffered the bolt loosening then winding itself out and through the timing cover! At the time and even with later modified bolts as I recall there was a requirement for a specific thread lock compound to be used.

The manual states that no Loctite, just engine oil, should be used with the original Torx head bolt. Yours may have been Loctited in Craig? The 12 point replacement bolt does use Loctite 243 (blue) on it's installation. It's not a left hand thread, although that would have prevented several bolts making an unplanned exit through the cover, as RichardV6 says.

Probably not much help in your case, but this worked for me.

It's the same method that MMC used.

+1 on using the correct Torx Plus bit.

I have the new 12 point replacement bolt installed (which is installed at MMC) but can’t get it loose as well !!
To find the correct bit for an impact wrench is also not easy (at least not in Switzerland).
Need to renew the camshaft bearings so little the bastard need to come off.

Thanks, gentlemen! I will let you know how this transpires. We have some back up--last resort part deux-- options! If my research is right, that bolt sits on a shaft and has a wide washer under it that it is nestled into the washer like a countersunk flat screw....? correct? One idea we're playing with is not messing with the bolt any more (it's banged up as is) and cut that washer off and get penetrating fluid down shaft to the end of the bolt.

Remember that it is a really long bolt that is threaded into the end of the crank. When I took my later model apart (three times) I was working with the 12pt bolt head sticking out and not the Torx. I noticed that there might have been a small amount of loctite on the bolt and there definitely was some sort of glue on the crank pinion to sprocket interface, a lot of it.

Good luck my friend, that is a sticky situation for sure.

I Posted this problem on my FB page so my other gearhead groups could read it.

I too had to resort to the impact gun/wrench on the 12pt bolt to get it loose.

As in the picture, but get a 2nd person to rapidly tap the head
of the T bar with a 2lb hammer, keep weight (pressure) on the T bar
and let the hammer do the shocking.

SOLVED!!! We didn't want to mess with the bolt. So my mechanic (who is a magician and has many years of experience and knows these cars) had an elegant solution. He surmised that the chamfer of the bolt and countersink angle pinion washer had surface tension and rust and etc. The bolt was virtually compressed or rusted to the washer. He cut across the top and broke off the top edge of that washer, and then hit it with a hammer (marked with arrow) using the washer as a wrench. The bolt came right out.