Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Steering diagnosis please.

Something was perhaps really different, but I do not know the exact anatomy of a +8. What I do know is that the track rod on a Roadster is fixed to the stub axle in such a way that it is not level to the ground. They end up on top of the fixation bracket on the stub axle, thus pointing slightly upwards. This ended up considered as a failure, increasing bump steer. On other cars (as far as I know, and possibly including the +8?) they are fit on the underside of the bracket, as experience has shown they should be.
Mulberry used to offer a service to correct this: you sent in your stub axle, they re-machined it so you could re-fit the track rods with the fixation bolts switched 180 degrees and the rod fit on the underside of the bracket. They do not advertise this any more, but they might still do it on request.
My car is also Roadster S1, but it is the only Morgan that I have extensive experience with - so I cannot compare. But I am rather happy now: after having installed BRBs (which calmed down the front end), Panhard rod (calming down the rear, much more precise cornering), steering damper (reducing, but not eliminating bump steer) and finally fitting power assisted steering (which made road handling in all circumstances a breeze). PAS is not a DIY job (at least not for me), the rest was. Fun to see the improvement after each mod. My recommendation? Provided bump steer really is the problem, a steering damper.
DaveW, your instruction for fitting it was extremely valuable - as I now have fitted two more dampers on friend's cars.

No PAS Robbie, sadly, but think at some point I'll go for steering bearings. When you say dampers, do you mean those thin metal plates that are bolted to the stub, and slot into the chasis? I've got those.

Yes, exactly. They should be greased, and no play fore-aft. There is a good description at the GoMog website, check it out. As for PAS, I understand. Expensive retrofit and quite invasive, but what a difference on a Roadster with a heavy engine and fat tyres! In the case of bump steer, I would definately start with a steering damper. Medium fiddly with full width bumpers, quite a bit more strenous if you have overriders. Steering bearings will make the handling easier (poor man's PAS - which I considered myself, before taking the plunge - no pockets in the shrouds), but not do much with bump steer. It does require a bit of stripping of the front suspension, though. But BRBs are so cheap and easy to fit that it was impossible to resist. Not a major breakthrough in handling, but quite noticeable. Very good cost/benefit ratio.

I've been reading up on your post about the steering damper and Dave W workshop note. All helpful, and I think in my realm of ability. It's on the list, with steering bearings, BRBs and remote greasing when I get the chance.

If you decide to fit a steering damper, and if you have a car with overriders, it is still possible to fit the damper without removing the overrider bracket, it can be done with the bracket in situ. Takes some skill with a small angle grinder. The metal of the bracket is veeery hard....

Well that would make the job easier. I do have overiders. I take it, the likes of a dremmel with a metal cutting wheel wouldn't suffice?

I doubt a Dremel is sufficient, but you can try. The bracket is very tough, so if a Dremel works it will take you long time and use several cutting wheels. If you decide to go this way you can PM me. There are some wathpoints and hints, and I will be glad to help. And while you are at it, why not order and fit BRBs? Cheap, easy to fit and absolutely a noticeable effect. I have a hint here too..

Even with the over rider bracket in the vice, cutting the clearance slot is hard work. A Dremel won't touch it.

I didn't think the dremmel would work, but you never know. I'll see how I get on with testing on different road surfaces, but will get the BRBs regardless as I've heard good things about them, and very reasonably priced.

Re the damper blades fitting. If you do detect front/back movement then it can be adjusted away by adjusting the locating lugs at the chassis. Check these lugs for wear as grooves can form. Cheap to replace with new anyway. Keep the area where the blades enter the chassis end greased to ensure good movement in and out with no unwanted movement. The blades are not expensive to replace either.