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Hi
I’ve decided to upgrade the front brake assembly. As part of the upgrade I also wish to introduce an adjustable proportioning valve. The questions I have are - where is the best place to mount it & as it’s more to stop all wheels locking up during wet weather - where should the setting be set at & is there a preferred manufacturer/type.
Cheers


1999 Morgan Plus 8. 3.9 ....
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What upgrades are you considering?


Simon @ Sifab.co.uk

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I'd be careful that for road use you don't over brake one end. I am sure Simon or Cain can comment.
You can adjust the pedal action by the threaded rod on the shaft going to the clevis pin if you need more bite or less pedal travel


JohnV6
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You're already going to be outbraking the rears if you upgrade the front brakes so all wheels are unlikely to lock together. Rear wheels locking before the fronts is to be studiously avoided as it makes for seriously scary corner entry.

Are you concerned that the weight transfer forward on braking along with the upgraded brakes will unload the rears to the point of locking? .... that would seem the only scenario you might want a compensator.

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Colin, AKA Spanner Juggler and I had a discussion on brakes many moons ago, around the time when he was having issues warping the OE discs on his then new +8.

I think Colin was going for multi piston calipers and fancy discs...I questioned the logic at the time in that I can lock the fronts on my own mid 80`s +8 with standard the set-up my thinking was built around mere mortals such as I, who seem unlikely to attempt any fancy braking techniques when faced with an emergency stop situation, who would more than likely lock the fronts up even earlier with increased stopping power, and thus potentially increase the stopping distance..?

Colin being no stranger to competitive driving no doubt makes far more use of braking power than I might ever hope to, proof of that perhaps being that the OE discs warped in Colin`s "normal" road use...?

Ok so I could understand that the MMC`s design spec for brakes might not contain much in the way of scientific exploration to achieve a perfect balance for brakes relative to the light weight of the Trads,and in terms of to avoiding lock up..and my hope would be that any upgrades might provide an improved performance resulting in providing a better feel to the brakes on a track day, or when pressing on somewhat, my thinking along the lines of better cooling and hopefully more control in normal braking, but perhaps increasing the risk of early lock up in an emergency..?

Just thinking in type and claiming zero expertise.

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Silly Question but if you should have a serious accident how will the Insurance company look at the modification ?
Especially as a DIY installation?
If you are asking for advice surely best leaving it ?
Just my view

Last edited by brownbaker; 23/12/21 07:38 AM.
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Novel idea this one but have you thought about driving to suit the conditions so your wheels don't lock up in the wet?

Arwyn

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Originally Posted by Luddite
Colin, AKA Spanner Juggler and I had a discussion on brakes many moons ago, around the time when he was having issues warping the OE discs on his then new +8.

I think Colin was going for multi piston calipers and fancy discs...I questioned the logic at the time in that I can lock the fronts on my own mid 80`s +8 with standard the set-up my thinking was built around mere mortals such as I, who seem unlikely to attempt any fancy braking techniques when faced with an emergency stop situation, who would more than likely lock the fronts up even earlier with increased stopping power, and thus potentially increase the stopping distance..?

Colin being no stranger to competitive driving no doubt makes far more use of braking power than I might ever hope to, proof of that perhaps being that the OE discs warped in Colin`s "normal" road use...?

Ok so I could understand that the MMC`s design spec for brakes might not contain much in the way of scientific exploration to achieve a perfect balance for brakes relative to the light weight of the Trads,and in terms of to avoiding lock up..and my hope would be that any upgrades might provide an improved performance resulting in providing a better feel to the brakes on a track day, or when pressing on somewhat, my thinking along the lines of better cooling and hopefully more control in normal braking, but perhaps increasing the risk of early lock up in an emergency..?

Just thinking in type and claiming zero expertise.


Morning George

Smiling at your post here as I also got berated by more than one Morgan pal for never braking and so giving no warning of tight bends when in convoy 🤣. What happened in the case of the +8….. it was6 weeks old when a colleague from Volvo Sweden flew into Glasgow and we had a week visiting distilleries in your wonderful homeland (and I discovered Glengoyne). On day 2 a brake judder started, pedal modulation and pulling to the O/S, classic disc warp! A week later it was grabbing and snatching so I rang the dealer from Scotland and had it booked in.

On collection I had driven to the first proper ‘stop’ about 300 yards and nearly mounted the pavement. I took it straight back where they informed me that MMC had insisted they only change one disc. The car was lethal so I rejected the repair and the first of many battles with MMC ensued. They finally relented and supplied a second disc and the dealer fitted it FOC, very good of them as I had not bought the car from them (they were still saying 18 months for build) but they were my regular dealer. Anyway those discs lasted about a month.

My style of braking comes from motorsport plus (my excuse) being trained at Fords rally school, MIRA advanced (when I was a test driver at Jaguar) and Volvo’s Halared driver academy…. I brake late and hard and for a short time just before turn in and later, if required, trail brake to transfer weight over the front wheels.

Anyway whatever I was unhappy with the OE equipment so sought out a then unknown to me Peter Mulberry of Mulfab. As luck would have it Peters workshop was about 8 miles from my home. We instantly hit it off and Peter explained that the issue is that the standard new discs from MMC are very ‘green’ metal, they are not de-stressed in any way and warp with any serious provocation, he said he collected warped discs and had them surface ground for the racers he supplied via Chas Windridge as once through a heat cycle and trued they were fine. Also one clad of racer was not allowed vented discs.

Peter showed me his 300mm vented disc kit, I asked for fitting instructions and he didn’t have any and that started our collaboration of me writing some sets of fitting instructions for his products in exchange for very special ’mates rates’ on parts, happy days!

So George, the facts are the car kept it’s OE 4 pot calipers as they were fine, the pads were standard but the discs were 300mm so the caliper mounting brackets were different and moved the caliper out a little giving more torque effect on the rotation of the wheel for a given clamp load/C of F.

To me, and I think the core of our debate back in 2002, was my view that whilst the overall stopping distance was almost certainly the same the ‘feel’ was significantly improved. After fitting I never had a front lock up and after working on the very same car 2 owners and 15 years later it still had those same 300mm discs on it. No judder, no pedal modulation, brakes were fine.

As a footnote, that car was replaced in 2008 with a new +4 4 seat, then a 2 seat and that by a 2012 4/4 and none of those had a brake or disc issue…. Perhaps I had slowed down and was less ‘hooligan’ by then 🤣🤣

BR
Colin


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Originally Posted by Arwyn Williams
Novel idea this one but have you thought about driving to suit the conditions so your wheels don't lock up in the wet?

Arwyn


I gave up years ago on trying to persuade people that if they spent 25% of what they spend on modifying their cars on driver training they would be faster, safer and I am sure enjoy their motoring more. No one wants to follow that advice. 🤣

BR
Colin
(Direct quote from Gunnar Palm to me… “the way you drive your going to be the first one at the scene of your accident” I listened very carefully after that!)


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Hi
Thanks for all the comments , as most Trad owners will know, braking in dry conditions is not an issue as the set up is pretty much ok and fairly well balanced. However driving in the wet is a totally different kettle of fish.

Driving in the wet requires an egg between the throttle pedal , otherwise the back end is twitching all the time & so it is with the braking , I’ve had a few scary moments when braking in the wet, it’s far too easy to lock up all 4 wheels at relatively low speeds & light brake pedal pressure . I think that by reducing the rear brake pressure to the rear wheels (as with most cars ) the bias will be transferred to the front wheels this will result in better control & the front wheels requiring a good bit more force before they lock up.

I was thinking of mounting the proportioning/bias valve alongside the battery isolation switch. The brakes I am installing are indeed the Mulfab ones, I would have been changing everything anyway . So why not all the reviews I’ve read about the Mulfab brakes has been positive .

I informed my insurance company when I tweaked the engine they simply increased the premium by the same percentage as the power increase , so I imagine for brakes they will simply make a note on the policy & charge an admin fee.


1999 Morgan Plus 8. 3.9 ....
1961 Alvis TD21 Series1 3 Litre Auto....
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