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Joined: Nov 2015
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Just barreling along
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Originally Posted by Ray
Originally Posted by DaiBach
Thanks for the continued advice from everyone - I used a circuit tester and there is definitely power getting to the fuel tank (the led was flickering, so I'm assuming this is what the flickering from 10v to 0v indicates) - would I find the regulator in close proximity to the petrol gauge.

As the gauge does move (albeit, always to 1/3 full) the uneducated me is going to suggest that it's the sender that needs to be replaced

Got my first ever Morgan Car meet-up tomorrow - so excited !
. Dai,. A length of bamboo is a lot more reliable.
hide

Ah, bit is it E10 compliant and ethanol resistant ? wink


Jon M
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
Originally Posted by DaiBach
Thanks for the continued advice from everyone - I used a circuit tester and there is definitely power getting to the fuel tank (the led was flickering, so I'm assuming this is what the flickering from 10v to 0v indicates) - would I find the regulator in close proximity to the petrol gauge.

As the gauge does move (albeit, always to 1/3 full) the uneducated me is going to suggest that it's the sender that needs to be replaced

Got my first ever Morgan Car meet-up tomorrow - so excited !

It's the gauge that requires the regulated 10 volts so it will always be located close by.

An old moving coil analogue multimeter is best to assess the output from an OE electro-mechanical regulator.


How I wish I'd kept my old Avo 8!

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I had one of those !!!!!!

David Byrne

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When I rebuilt my ‘69 4/4 the fuel gauge always read 1/4 full. I took the fuel sender out of the tank and it was obvious that the arm between the sender and the float had seized up. Application of WD40 to the pivot and gentle load on the float end of the arm soon had it freed off. The gauge now works over its full range. It is of course only an indication that there is fuel in the tank, always best to fill it well before it gets to the empty mark..

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Originally Posted by B3MOG
I had one of those !!!!!!

David Byrne

I have three having caught the reconditioning bug blush

[Linked Image]

This is my very similar AVO 9 but with international markings and measuring up to 3kV. They would need to be sold at £1000 + now if still made, to match production costs given accuracy and complexity of construction.

Note mirror behind pointer to allow parallax correction.


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Good man.
I have an AVO8 rescued from work some time before they made me redundant. They didn't ask for it back.


Graham (G4FUJ)

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One of the things I wish I still had access to. When I first started work at Plessey Communications in 1980 we had a selection of AVOs and Fluke DVMs in the lab. The AVOs were the most heavily used.


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Originally Posted by Paul F
One of the things I wish I still had access to. When I first started work at Plessey Communications in 1980 we had a selection of AVOs and Fluke DVMs in the lab. The AVOs were the most heavily used.


I was at Ferranti in the eighties and remember the excitement when we got a Fluke DVM … revolutionary!

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I have a number of test meters (and other equipment), including a Fluke. smile


Graham (G4FUJ)

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I think I found the issue - your suggestions on shorting the connectors made it pretty clear that the problem probably lay in the fuel tank

Here's what I found, looks like the float deteriorated and fell off the sender unit - any recommendations as to where to get a replacement (float or entire unit)

I'm assuming these are specific to Morgans or can I use a universal fuel sender ? The tank appears to be around 8 inches (22 cms deep)


For example, would there be any issues using this float the dimensions seem correct

I could go for the one listed on Morgan Spares of New England, but I've exhausted my budget for the Morgan so I'm trying to do a better job keeping costs under control smile

Cheers,

Rob

Last edited by DaiBach; 14/02/22 04:34 AM.

1974 4/4 2 seater
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