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Leroy Offline OP
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I'm hoping to find the time to fit my new sifab steering bearings in the next few days. Can someone advise if I need to grease them like you would for ball bearing ones? TIA


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Initially yes. After that they should receive grease via routine kingpin greasing.


Richard

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Originally Posted by RichardV6
Initially yes. After that they should receive grease via routine kingpin greasing.


Thanks Richard.


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Sadly, more advice needed. I've followed the instructions from mulfab to fit the bearings except instead of lowering the bottom king pin nut, I've used the threaded rod method, there is still tention in the main spring. The king pin also hasn't seemed to budge. All that has happened is the bottom plate has come away and released tention from the rebound spring. So naturally a bit frustrated 😤


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Bit more of an update. Tried again as looked at the suspension diagram to understand a bit more about how it works. Suspected that I had a seized King pin. Kept the bottom king pin bolt in place and undid the threaded bolts a little, and no movement. Tapped a chisel between the bottom plates and that freed it. So all is going as should for now.


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I wonder if you have fully released the kingpin top nut with grease nipple. If so and with bottom plate fully released and stub axle resting on lower cross tube end, you should be able to withdraw kingpin downwards.

After withdrawing kingpin on my Roadster there was the very smallest amount of residual tension in main spring. The advice from SSL, since it was their RS kit I was fitting, was to cover the spring and surrounding area with an old blanket then work spring off its seat. This turned out to be a drama free task. Make sure stub axle/disc assembly is well supported though to avoid straining brake hose.

ETA: posts crossed, looks like you're sorted now smile

Last edited by RichardV6; 20/02/22 01:49 PM.

Richard

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BTW Leroy, something not mentioned in any instructions when re-assembling, is ensuring the grease nipple in top nut points forwards or best orientation to suit grease gun.

Since you cannot directly twist kingpin to allow this, I found nipping up bottom then top kingpin nuts alternately to twist kingpin into ideal position allows top nut eventually to be fully tightened leaving grease nipple orientation as desired.


Richard

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Leroy Offline OP
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
I wonder if you have fully released the kingpin top nut with grease nipple. If so and with bottom plate fully released and stub axle resting on lower cross tube end, you should be able to withdraw kingpin downwards.

After withdrawing kingpin on my Roadster there was the very smallest amount of residual tension in main spring. The advice from SSL, since it was their RS kit I was fitting, was to cover the spring and surrounding area with an old blanket then work spring off its seat. This turned out to be a drama free task. Make sure stub axle/disc assembly is well supported though to avoid straining brake hose.

ETA: posts crossed, looks like you're sorted now smile

I've managed to get the main spring off and gave it a good clean. There was a little tension, but the whole confusion. Was the king pin staying put originally, although I had removed the bottom nut originally. Giving the whole area a good clean before I reassemble to ensure there's no grit as I've discovered I have devol bushes, which is good going for 45k miles.


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Originally Posted by Leroy
Originally Posted by RichardV6
I wonder if you have fully released the kingpin top nut with grease nipple. If so and with bottom plate fully released and stub axle resting on lower cross tube end, you should be able to withdraw kingpin downwards.

After withdrawing kingpin on my Roadster there was the very smallest amount of residual tension in main spring. The advice from SSL, since it was their RS kit I was fitting, was to cover the spring and surrounding area with an old blanket then work spring off its seat. This turned out to be a drama free task. Make sure stub axle/disc assembly is well supported though to avoid straining brake hose.

ETA: posts crossed, looks like you're sorted now smile

I've managed to get the main spring off and gave it a good clean. There was a little tension, but the whole confusion. Was the king pin staying put originally, although I had removed the bottom nut originally. Giving the whole area a good clean before I reassemble to ensure there's no grit as I've discovered I have devol bushes, which is good going for 45k miles.





If you have devol bushes then now is the time to change them
You will also need to drill the stub axle tube to allow grease to lubricate the steering bearings

We offer an overnight turnaround to fit and ream new bushes, supply our in house made hard chrome pins (which are the correct length) and we can drill the grease holes whilst we’re at it

Pm me for more details


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Leroy Offline OP
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Im after advice now on reasseming the damn main spring. I can manage to get the top of the spring in with a fair bit of force, but the top of the stub axle is pressed against the spring so the "bent" spring won't straighten. I don't have any spring compressors to shorten the length 😤


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