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Joined: Mar 2009
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Smile, it confuses them
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It is a pun on the hitch hikers guide to the galaxy where the captain always had time for one more bath.

Bit of an old joke, it used to say "burn" but several people thought it said bum. So I changed it so it did say that. Can't take life too seriously can we?


Everyone loves a Morgan. Even me, unless it's broken again.
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Originally Posted by Alistair
Simon - in the past you mentioned that you have limited space. My Coupe still needs the front end sorting and if the door is the same I am happy to donate it for a bit if this helps you? Will need to organise to get it up to you if it is an option for you? This is S4+ based in case they are different ?



Unfortunately the window motors and mechanism are completely different on the S2 onwards. WRT to the front ball joints, get someone to whip off the uprights and send them to me to remove and replace the ball joints, we can generally turn that job round over night


Simon @ Sifab.co.uk

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Just barreling along
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Originally Posted by Alistair
It is a pun on the hitch hikers guide to the galaxy where the captain always had time for one more bath.

Bit of an old joke, it used to say "burn" but several people thought it said bum. So I changed it so it did say that. Can't take life too seriously can we?

thumbs


Jon M
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So, for the last few weeks I've been running the car with the multi-plug to the driver's side window disconnected and the one to the passenger side connected and thus an opportunity to see if the issue with the fuse blowing is drivers side at least. This does appear to be the case as all the time I've been using the car in this set-up I've not had a single issue with the fuse going and the passenger window working as expected. The challenge now is to find the issue on the drivers side as IO cannot find any evidence of any wires that have rubbed and lost their sleeving to create a short. The ducting between the door and the body is completely intact and therefore unless two wires have both lost their sleeving inside the plastic ducting and are touching each other (which would be most unfortunate) there must be either:
1) A fault with the motor control unit for the drivers window which causes an reverse flow of current / short, OR
2) A wire shorting on the body somewhere between the entry to the chassis and fuse box.
On the plus side having just the passenger door plugged in and working does at least mean the radio comes on with the ignition now and and doesn't go off after one hour


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These issues that surface now and then do wind you up a bit but we tend to forget that some cars are now 20 yrs old, some wiring maybe a little brittle headlamps under the wings certainly. I must admit Chris Lawrence got the factory to put them together very well a bit complicated and race prep at times mind you. Hope you get it sorted soon.....

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Originally Posted by PJC
So, for the last few weeks I've been running the car with the multi-plug to the driver's side window disconnected and the one to the passenger side connected and thus an opportunity to see if the issue with the fuse blowing is drivers side at least. This does appear to be the case as all the time I've been using the car in this set-up I've not had a single issue with the fuse going and the passenger window working as expected. The challenge now is to find the issue on the drivers side as IO cannot find any evidence of any wires that have rubbed and lost their sleeving to create a short. The ducting between the door and the body is completely intact and therefore unless two wires have both lost their sleeving inside the plastic ducting and are touching each other (which would be most unfortunate) there must be either:
1) A fault with the motor control unit for the drivers window which causes an reverse flow of current / short, OR
2) A wire shorting on the body somewhere between the entry to the chassis and fuse box.
On the plus side having just the passenger door plugged in and working does at least mean the radio comes on with the ignition now and and doesn't go off after one hour

As discussed earlier in this thread did you try increasing the value of the window control fuse to 10 amps Paul? You hinted you would try this but cannot see confirmation you did.


Richard

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Have you tried re-connecting the multi-plug and disconnecting the elements inside the door to eliminate the wiring ?

Hoping this is possible.


Paul
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@RichardV6 - yes some time ago I did try a 10A fuse and that blew instantly too, hence feeling that is was a proper short as opposed to a current requirement of 5.5A / 6A which was just a little too much for the 5A fuse to cope with.

@PaulF - I'll definitely have a look at this although it's not immediately apparent whether there are separate plugs to come out of the control module to the window. It appears as though the multi-plug does both jobs IE power in and control out etc. Therefore whilst it appears I've narrowed the issue down to the drivers door side of the car I'm still yet to work out if it is a wiring issue or an internal failure of the control module. Hopefully I'll discover some bare wire somewhere that I've not looked before - you know that experience when your trying to find something that you've looked for ten times already in the same place! banghead


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So I've been running the car for several weeks now with the drivers door window module/motor un-plugged and I've not had the fuse go once and the passenger side has worked perfectly at all times. Therefore this last weekend I've plugged the drivers side back in and paid close attention to the where the loom goes out of the door, through the plastic drinking and in to the car main body. It appears that every time the door opens and closes it works a little like a "Ratchet" and is pulling the loom more in to the door. I have been able to push a good inch to one and half inches of loom back in to the body of the car very easily and this leaves the loom feeling comfortable rather than "Taught". I've only driven the car for about an hour since but all worked perfectly and no fuse blows! Think I might put a cable tie round the loom adjacent to the point of entry in to the door to prevent it being ratcheted back in to the door again and see if that solves the problem.

Fingers crossed for what would be a simple, cheap and fascinating fix! cheers


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Yes fingers crossed Paul. Your findings point to a very plausible explanation of issue. It also suggests though this racheting movement has caused a chaffed wire closer to the loom now which only lack of stress on same is holding away from a short to ground. Maybe judicious application of insulating tape in the area would help long term if you cannot find the specific damage.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
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