Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Dumb question - removing caliper pins

Covered here.......scroll almost to the end for images.
http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/228294/10

From Autumn 2014...here's an extract

This next photo is quite important. The Caparo calipers don't use split pins, they have dumb bell like retainers which can be drifted out either way, but are held in place by "traditional" spring clips. I managed to damage one of the spring clips when removing, but have some new MGB clips in stock. However, although they look the same, the MGB items are very slightly narrower,so not really suitable as this would allow the pins to move slightly sideways. They would do as a short term fix. I rang BHM, but they don't carry the clips in stock, and have not supplied any. They don't come with new pads by the way. So I rang Rutters, but got the same response. So I've contacted Caparo direct, but am not hopeful as these parts are pence in value even though they are safety critical. I'm presently looking into an alternative source so will let you know what turns up.
The other important thing to note is that the pads have a lip on the outside edge caused by the pads slightly overlapping the outer edge of the disc. I've filed the lip away, but it will recur as the pad and disc don't exactly align!
These pads are exactly the same as on my Roadster which has the earlier Lockheed calipers.



I'll repeat this from the other thread - Brake Component Part Numbers: A bit more information now:

Caparo spring & pin part number: HCK215

Morgan "genuine parts" number for spring clips MBS 0675 (Thanks Richard)

Now here's the best bit. Spring clips are available from Rimmer Bros:
QP2740 is 1 spring clip - Rover SD1 - 2 piston caliper. �1.60 each (incl VAT) and you need four.
Or STC8574P, which is Retaining kit, rear brake pads (aftermarket). Includes 4 clips and 4 split pins (you don't need the split pins). �3.90 incl VAT
So the set is cheaper than buying four clips seperately.

The special retaining pins are Caparo only so it looks like that will be a factory order unless you replace with bolts.



So today I started on the nearside:
First those pesky pad retaining clips......I found a suitable sized drift, but because the pads had pushed out slightly the pins were stiff to get out.

Bit of a knack , but try tapping lightly the tab on the pad upwards then on the upper h spring place the jaws of a pair of pliers each side of the pin & push in the direction of the centre of the hub. Ie flattening the h spring. Do this close to the edge where at the same time using a suitable drift type of implement tap the pin out. It will push through the other side easily. To do the bottom pin start by tapping the pad downwards & repeat as above.
Do take note of how the h springs are positioned. Sorry Dave methinks your pic has them the wrong way round. But hey what do I know.

I have mine located as per Dave's picture with the longer leg of H spring (with hole in) facing out from each pin. Pretty sure that's how they were fitted ex factory.

I would add that the drift Dave refers to should ideally be just used to hand push the pins out, avoiding if possible, any extra force. Re- assemble with Ceratec

Richard you could well be right. Over the years I have never been totally sure.
Think MOG magazine had an article on a Caliper rebuild, which mentioned the orientation of the H springs. If anyone has still got their copy, maybe they could check.
I certainly will be interested in opinions from the professionals as am struggling with a bit of brake squeal that so far I have only managed to stop by using anti squeal stick on pads. But using them makes brake maintenance a “pita”. Also as recently found they don’t really stand up to a track day. (They deform)

A set of long drive punches are £10.79 from Machine Mart, make jobs like this easier & avoid damage.
Mine have proved useful for many jobs over the years.

That image above of the calipers, is as they came from the factory. Whether that means the springs are as they should be is something to ponder. It may not be critical, but the longer arms fit well against the outside edges of the pads.

As I alluded to in that post, the raised outer edge of the pads caused by the mis fit, tends to lever the pads harder against the pins, so a few taps on the raised section of the pads to "persuade" them closer to the hub might help loosen the pins.

Thanks for all the input - I have just received the spring clips so will give it a try soon. Looking at this it seems that in theory one could push down on the spring to allow the pins to come out with little force. In practice this doesn't seem to work quite as smoothly. Mine appear to teh same way round as Dave W's.