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Joined: Jun 2014
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Rev 4K Offline OP
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Coming back from a trip to Austria i was in a queue for the channel tunnel. It was hot so i was switching the engine off as required. i got between french customs and uk customs when the car would not start.
This was not a starter motor problem but an electrical one. When i put the key in none of the engine dash lights came up. i checked the fuses, nothing obvious.
Fortunately a free of charge mechanic was called. he brought a battery booster which restarted the engine. They then put me on the train at the very back in case the starter problem persisted.
this is the second time it has happened.Despite the battery being nearly brand new i could not get out of my garage. Lights worked but something was missing in the circuit to the engine.
i put the battery on trickle charge which solved the problem.
i have kept a close eye on the battery charger gauge which has shown 13.2 at all times during the trip through france and germany.
What should i check?
Is there some solenoid at the key position that activates the starting process? Can the battery just flatten?

Any thoughts?

Regards Paul


Paul

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It could be the relays. Mine failed for I think the fuel pump, that stops power to the ECU so no start just a dull click as you turn the key. Lights etc were fine.


JohnV6
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How old is the battery ?


Paul
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I do not know what type of alternator you have fitted, but 13.2V doesn't sound enough to fully charge battery, I would be looking for 14.2V.

On a mass produced car I would suspect the internal voltage regulator in the alternator, on a Morgan I would also check that adequate size cables & earth leads had been used when the car was built.

There were both these faults on our 4/4 when we purchased it, service records showed that garages didn't spot the problems and just sold the owner a new battery every year!


Jack
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As the battery is "new," that a jump got it started and that you were monitoring the voltmeter while running with no issues being obvious... Perhaps you have a poor connection between the batteries terminals and those of the Mog`s wiring..? Crud can build up between the battery clamps and the terminals and provide intermittent issues that can seem like a flat battery, and when disturbed the connection is improved and things all seem OK.

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Talk Morgan Guru
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Originally Posted by Jack & Jill 602
I do not know what type of alternator you have fitted, but 13.2V doesn't sound enough to fully charge battery, I would be looking for 14.2V.

On a mass produced car I would suspect the internal voltage regulator in the alternator, on a Morgan I would also check that adequate size cables & earth leads had been used when the car was built.

There were both these faults on our 4/4 when we purchased it, service records showed that garages didn't spot the problems and just sold the owner a new battery every year!

Jack is correct Paul. 13.2 volts is too low unless the battery is so depleted the alternator hasn't been able to bring the battery up to that voltage yet. It's also what would be expected from a smart charger in float mode after the battery was fully charged at a higher voltage.

The charge voltage is best monitored after the starter has been used on a previously fully charged battery. The alternator should quickly replace the energy used to bring the battery back to full state of charge and will require in the order of 14 + volts and as much as 14.6 volts to do that. This assumes battery (despite being new) and alternator are performing correctly.

As well as faulty components an unforeseen and uncommanded battery drain could cause the issue so check for any partial shorts, cables getting hot etc.

Finally bear in mind that the alternator is regulated to provide a maximum charge voltage around 14.4 volts but its the battery and other loads that control exactly what voltage it puts out once working flat out. This means it could be less than the afore mentioned for a short while and particularly if alternator is simultaneously satisfying other loads such as lights, wipers etc.


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The earth on my S1 in the engine compartment externally looked fine but dismantled showed corrosion. It might be worth a check. It is easier to access if you removed the air filter box.


JohnV6
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Originally Posted by John V6
It could be the relays. Mine failed for I think the fuel pump, that stops power to the ECU so no start just a dull click as you turn the key. Lights etc were fine.


Jack
1985 4/4 T/C 4 seater Royal Ivory
1934 F Type
2018 Pembleton SuperSport (self built).
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I have a spare relay mounted next to the original ready to swop the wires over - just in case (once a rally driver...).
I found that I had a relay with the same part number in stock - from an 1984 Austin Metro!


Jack
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The OP states that it happened once before when the battery was new but doesn’t say how old the battery is now.

If the original failure happened soon after the new battery was fitted and was not long before the present recurrence, I would start with connections at and near the battery especially the earth connection to the chassis. Then move on to the earth strap between engine and chassis - which in many Morgans is very slim.


Paul
Costock, UK
2014 4/4 Rolls Royce Garnet Red
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