Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Toe In

Is there a reference anywhere on how to adjust the toe in on a modern 2012 3 Wheeler ?

Recent thread here on adjusting for Classics, M3W similar after slackening track rod end locknuts.

I use a Gunson Trakrite wheel alignment gauge on the M3W. It is very easy to use. Zero toe angle works well for me with good tyre wear but some set a small amount of toe in.

It is interesting that to the naked eye the front wheels always appear to have toe-out. Therefore, it is necessary to have a slightly more scientific way of checking the alignment. I knocked up a pair of frames that sit on each of the front wheel rims and use a couple of identical tape measures to check the alignment.





There are a couple of precise wooden blocks that rest against the rim to ensure accuracy. Tie-wraps passed around the frames and behind the spokes ensure that everything is held tightly in place. Use a level to ensure that both frames are horizontal and use masking tape between the wheels and mudguards to prevent the wheels from turning if you have them off the ground.



Then it's just a matter of centering up the steering rack. Use a dowel through the hole in the upper centre of the rack housing and turn the steering until the dowel locates in the inner rack. Early cars didn't have this locating hole so you'll just have to work out the central position as best as you can.



Ensure that one of the wheels is parallel/inline with the chassis. Then read off the two measurements and adjust the other tie rod so that the measurements are the same, or the front measurement is a couple of mm smaller than the rear if you want a tad of toe-in. Obviously there may be more to it than this, and it is an iterative process, but it's all pretty straight forward and obvious when you actually do it. By the way, it's surprising how much the alignment changes as the track rod end locking nuts are tightened so be sure to re-check the alignment after everything is tweaked up.





I've had good results with this method and it's relatively quick and easy to use (and dirt cheap of course).

Love it, it fits so well too... I suspect 1/8th inch toe in might be a reasonable place to start, but then I know nothing of M3W`s have been wrong before and more than once..,

I think the official recommendation is 'parallel'. When I first got my car (and after it had been set up at the factory) it had toe out which made it very unstable, especially under braking when it would weave around all over the road.

I claim ZERO expertise.. My guess is that having a degree of toe-in reduces the inclination of a pair of wheels to wander at the slightest hint of influence, be that camber alteration or a uneven road surface. I would have by nature thought parallel might seem ideal to resist uneven tyre wear/scrubbing, but I find no such issues on my +8`s tyres that are noticeable to the naked eye with 1/8th toe-in... As to how much different it might be to have only one wheel following on behind, relative to the geometrical positioning of the two front wheels... I have no idea.. With your very Morganesque set up to hand, it seems a bit of trial and error may be no big deal..?

Good luck in your choices..

Thats one way of doing it Bunny, I clamp a pair of 6' spirit levels to the brake discs and measure at each end. Zero toe for me also.

I used to do that too after reading about your method before. Problem is that my levels resemble bananas and I'm too tight to buy expensive ones!

Lengths of alloy angle angle (1.5 or 2" wide) from the hardware store are handy as straight edges, and not too expensive.