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Joined: Aug 2020
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Leroy Offline OP
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Originally Posted by Rog
So yes it’s looking like the motor then if you have power on the slow speed out. If it was mine I think that I would isolate the motor and power the motor independently from a battery first to be 100% sure (but only if you are confident of the connections!). Just maybe there could be some weird current limiting going on with the pcb that I would check first before replacing/repairing the motor.

I'm confident that I know which wire is supposed to feed the slow speed, as my testers bulb lit up only when the slow speed was selected. In your suggestion, I take it I would just run a wire from the positive terminal directly to the wire that goes the slow speed setting?


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Rog Offline
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Yes basically that’s what I would do to test the fan motor. Completely unplug the unit. Rig up a separate ground and test the slow and fast speeds from a temporary supply. But…. Having said that please be aware that I know dangerously little about electrickery. The electrical experts here may disagree or suggest otherwise!


Roger
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Originally Posted by Rog
Yes basically that’s what I would do to test the fan motor. Completely unplug the unit. Rig up a separate ground and test the slow and fast speeds from a temporary supply. But…. Having said that please be aware that I know dangerously little about electrickery. The electrical experts here may disagree or suggest otherwise!

I wonder if swapping the feeds around might be a better initial option, so the feed from the high speed goes to the wire the took the slow feed. That might discount a loose connection at the motor end. It may also change the order so that it goes from off, to slow, then fast. Still bizarre that the red wire from the motor isn't connected to anything. Guess that would be for a super fast speed 😂


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Originally Posted by Leroy
Bit of an update. I've located the motor, and it indeed under the bonnet untop of the bulkhead like John suggested. I removed the gauze filter and 3wires come from the motor but without taking things apart, I can't see where they join the motor. These wires are black, red and orange. Tracing these wires to the drivers side, I find the orange one connects to a green and slate wire and the black to a black wire. The wires come from the loom. The red wire doesn't connect to anything and was cut shorter than the black and orange wires and taped up. I've separated the bullet connectors and bridged them with a bulb, firstly the orange and green/slate. When ignition on and the blower started at the high speed setting, the bulb lit, but the blowers didn't work. The same for the black wire, and the bulb lit. All reassembled, and the high speed setting worked, but not the low on.

Does this mean that the problem lies with at the motor end? I've given the wires to the motor a jiggle and nothing happens when it's on the low setting, so might be able to rule out a loose wire, or maybe not.

Glad you have made some progress Leroy.

Three motor wires confirm its a two speed fan motor as expected, with each speed probably derived from differing internal windings.

There should be three wires from loom to connect to it via bullet connectors as mentioned earlier in thread though.

Can you confirm without doubt the fan did work on two speeds before the fault?

As things stand from your description above it can only work on one speed confused2

FWIW and to reiterate the loom wires to motor should be:

Green/yellow 12v +ve to high speed connection on fan motor
Green/slate 12v +ve to low speed connection on fan motor
Black ground/-ve to matching connection on fan motor (logically black)

Note fast and slow green cables may be reversed - I got the colour coding for each speed from latest Roadster schematic.

With connections to motor broken a multimeter set to cover voltage is best way to check correct functioning of switching. With negative probe on black wire you should be able to see 12 volts on each of other loom wires corresponding to fast and slow selection on switch.


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Rog Offline
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Originally Posted by Leroy
Originally Posted by Rog
Yes basically that’s what I would do to test the fan motor. Completely unplug the unit. Rig up a separate ground and test the slow and fast speeds from a temporary supply. But…. Having said that please be aware that I know dangerously little about electrickery. The electrical experts here may disagree or suggest otherwise!

I wonder if swapping the feeds around might be a better initial option, so the feed from the high speed goes to the wire the took the slow feed. That might discount a loose connection at the motor end. It may also change the order so that it goes from off, to slow, then fast. Still bizarre that the red wire from the motor isn't connected to anything. Guess that would be for a super fast speed 😂

I see where you are coming from swapping the feeds around in principle. Yes you may well get away with it but personally for me I think a bridge too far and not worth the risk. That pcb design is fragile and scary! Who know what weakness there are within. Say for instant the tracking for the low speed isn’t up to handling the power of the high speed, or even the components for that matter, it could turn into a disaster (there are instances on the forum of tracks burning out from normal use).

Good luck!


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Leroy Offline OP
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
Originally Posted by Leroy
Bit of an update. I've located the motor, and it indeed under the bonnet untop of the bulkhead like John suggested. I removed the gauze filter and 3wires come from the motor but without taking things apart, I can't see where they join the motor. These wires are black, red and orange. Tracing these wires to the drivers side, I find the orange one connects to a green and slate wire and the black to a black wire. The wires come from the loom. The red wire doesn't connect to anything and was cut shorter than the black and orange wires and taped up. I've separated the bullet connectors and bridged them with a bulb, firstly the orange and green/slate. When ignition on and the blower started at the high speed setting, the bulb lit, but the blowers didn't work. The same for the black wire, and the bulb lit. All reassembled, and the high speed setting worked, but not the low on.

Does this mean that the problem lies with at the motor end? I've given the wires to the motor a jiggle and nothing happens when it's on the low setting, so might be able to rule out a loose wire, or maybe not.

Glad you have made some progress Leroy.

Three motor wires confirm its a two speed fan motor as expected, with each speed probably derived from differing internal windings.

There should be three wires from loom to connect to it via bullet connectors as mentioned earlier in thread though.

Can you confirm without doubt the fan did work on two speeds before the fault?

As things stand from your description above it can only work on one speed confused2

FWIW and to reiterate the loom wires to motor should be:

Green/yellow 12v +ve to high speed connection on fan motor
Green/slate 12v +ve to low speed connection on fan motor
Black ground/-ve to matching connection on fan motor (logically black)

Note fast and slow green cables may be reversed - I got the colour coding for each speed from latest Roadster schematic.

With connections to motor broken a multimeter set to cover voltage is best way to check correct functioning of switching. With negative probe on black wire you should be able to see 12 volts on each of other loom wires corresponding to fast and slow selection on switch.

Been meaning to buy a multimeter for a while, so probs best get one. It definitely had two speeds, but am now confused as to how long ago I knew it did. So I have 3 wires from the motor, but only 2 are connected, the black and orange. The orange to the green and slate, and black to black. That would mean the red should be connected to the green and yellow. There is no green and yellow from the loom where the he black and green/slate exit. I did have some work done on the car not long after getting it where they sorted out a leak by resealing around that area, so may not have done the best job at re assembling things, but I would have thought there would be a dangling wire somewhere 🤷‍♂️


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Leroy Offline OP
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Just checked and the rape wrapped sour from the loom only contain two wires, the black and green/slate. Excuse my ignorance, but do looms carry negative/ground wires?


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Originally Posted by Leroy
Just checked and the rape wrapped sour from the loom only contain two wires, the black and green/slate. Excuse my ignorance, but do looms carry negative/ground wires?


Most certainly yes and almost invariably black, though they do terminate in an actual connection to ground/vehicle chassis at some point to complete circuit to battery. Its more common than not nowadays for cable provided ground connections to components where previously they may have relied on casing and attachment to metal body of vehicle to provide ground return.

There will almost certainly be a green/yellow wire as part of loom nearby somewhere. As Roger mentions please be careful with loose connections and test as I suggested.

Hopefully you will appreciate that the third motor wire cut short and taped off is not as it should be IF the motor is to work on two speeds.

Can you remember if fan has worked on two speeds after correction work was done. Is there any chance whatsoever that someone messed with the motor wires then?

Cutting short and taping off wire doesn't sound like factory practice to me.




Richard

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Originally Posted by Rog
Thanks for posting the pic’s John. So it’s looking like there might be a single and dual speed board. With the second relay (next to the 12 pin connector) missing on the single speed configuration.

Leroy from your second picture it looks like if you were to take another pic maybe with a bit more light from the flash you might be able to just see if the relay is there or not? Or if you could lay on your back and poke around with a suitable bent plastic probe you might be able to feel if that second relay was in place? I believe some early Roadsters only had one speed....

Thanks for your pictures Rog and also John's. Thoughts are now the PCB for momentary switch, single and double speed fans were basically the same with the latter board populated with the extra (slow?) speed relay.

I don't think this impacts on Leroy's problem though if his fan did work on two speeds at some point during his tenure.


Richard

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Leroy Offline OP
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
Originally Posted by Leroy
Just checked and the rape wrapped sour from the loom only contain two wires, the black and green/slate. Excuse my ignorance, but do looms carry negative/ground wires?


Most certainly yes and almost invariably black, though they do terminate in an actual connection to ground/vehicle chassis at some point to complete circuit to battery. Its more common than not nowadays for cable provided ground connections to components where previously they may have relied on casing and attachment to metal body of vehicle to provide ground return.

There will almost certainly be a green/yellow wire as part of loom nearby somewhere. As Roger mentions please be careful with loose connections and test as I suggested.

Hopefully you will appreciate that the third motor wire cut short and taped off is not as it should be IF the motor is to work on two speeds.

Can you remember if fan has worked on two speeds after correction work was done. Is there any chance whatsoever that someone messed with the motor wires then?

Cutting short and taping off wire doesn't sound like factory practice to me.



I would say it worked after the work was done in that area, as I after getting the morgan, I took it straight in for an mot and service, so my recollection of it working would have been after this. Again, excuse the ignorance, would the negative ground wire carry a feed that would light up my bridging bulb? In essence, I separated the black wire at the bullet connectors and rejoined them with a bulb in between. This bulb lit up when I selected the slow speed setting.


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