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Joined: Mar 2013
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Originally Posted by Dab of oppo
Over the last 9 years I have spent more on my 3 wheeler (servicing, upgrades & repairs), than my friend has spent on his Aston DB9 Vantage. He uses his more than I use mine.


For sure we all did. But ……… we all had more fun with our M3Ws as the guy with the Aston DB9 Vantage.


M3W brings back the FUN in driving

www.m3w-jungfrau-treffen.com
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Yes Laurens you are right, and I would not have met or enjoyed the camaraderie from the wonderful people on TM and the M3W club.

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Dutch Offline OP
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In the meantime we're keeping the car on a charger. I'm getting one of the small jump packs. I'm going to take off the clamp ons and replace them with the connector that also used on the charger That way I can plug in the jump pack without having to take off the bonnet. As I'll be jumping what is a lawn mower battery I don't think I'll have a problem with the smaller wire size. We'll see :-)

My son is going to take the car out tomorrow to see how quickly the battery charge drops.

Last edited by Dutch; 17/09/22 12:33 AM.

Dutch Junge
194 Mound St
Logan, OH USA 43138

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Chances are that your charger wires are capable of carrying circa 5 amps or so and are sized to carry out that task over many hours. The size of the cables on a jump pack kinda give the clue that something different is likely to happen when it is connected into a circuit.. ?

For sure the jump pack does not have many hours of capacity stored within, it is designed to provide max power over a short period of time.... As for the amount of current... there are many factors at play, A starter motor is the equivalent of an electrical short for a fraction of a second until it starts to rotate, as for the initial current surge...? I could only guess but lets suggest 500 amps to give a very rough idea, as for the effect on your charger sized wiring rated at 5 amps..?

Time is also very much part of the calculations when it comes to picking cable sizes and just how stressed your charger sized wiring might become, seems likely to correspond to the length of time you expose it to the loading of trying to fire up the engine connected to a starter pack.... scared

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Originally Posted by Dutch
I believe the 20 volts is AC coming from the stator before being converted to DC by the rectifier. Which by the way is a brand new Harley unit.

OK but that would likely be an off load voltage. To get the rectified and regulated 14.4 volts expected from a fully working charge circuit and a good battery, I would expect only a volt or two more of AC from the stator on each of its three phase windings.

You suggested your guy was looking for 20 volts AC direct from stator but what voltage did he find? If either of the three phase outputs was near zero then it looks like stator is u/s, which as you feared is an engine out job.

Just to repeat if your guy said the charge circuit is "only putting out 12 volts" then by definition it's putting out NO charge current at all and all he is measuring is the directly connected battery voltage. Sorry but this comment, if directly from him, made me suspicious.

There still could be a broken wire into the rectifier/regulator or even the new HD unit faulty. Easy enough to check.

Good luck Dutch.



Richard

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Originally Posted by Luddite
Chances are that your charger wires are capable of carrying circa 5 amps or so and are sized to carry out that task over many hours. The size of the cables on a jump pack kinda give the clue that something different is likely to happen when it is connected into a circuit.. ?

For sure the jump pack does not have many hours of capacity stored within, it is designed to provide max power over a short period of time.... As for the amount of current... there are many factors at play, A starter motor is the equivalent of an electrical short for a fraction of a second until it s wittarts to rotate, as for the initial current surge...? I could only guess but lets suggest 500 amps to give a very rough idea, as for the effect on your charger sized wiring rated at 5 amps..?

Time is also very much part of the calculations when it comes to picking cable sizes and just how stressed your charger sized wiring might become, seems likely to correspond to the length of time you expose it to the loading of trying to fire up the engine connected to a starter pack.... scared

Leaving a charger connected to a battery whilst using the latter to start engine is not good practice. A DC fuse if fitted may blow although unlikely. Otherwise it will just work flat out for the short while the battery volts are dragged down, producing only it's max charge current which will be little enough to impact on battery hence starter voltage. It will not and cannot stress the charger leads. FWIW I have accidentally done this many times on all manner of charging systems and never had an issue.


Richard

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Richard, I may be entirley incorrect.

I had thought Dutch was contemplating using the alternative wiring that comes with a Ctek and similar chargers/conditioners, the idea being to facilitate permanent connection of a pair charger sized of wires to the battery that have a plug/socket arrangement into which the charger can be plugged. The same plug socket arrangement utilised to save having to lift covers etc.etc. in order to connect the charger... The CTek charger can come supplied standard with both clamps wired to one plug, along with another pair of wires with eyelets on one end and the plug on the other. If the intention had to been to connect to the jump kit to the wires which in turn are connected to the battery via the eyelets, in order to effect a jump start..! Such a process seemed a tad risky to me...?

As you typed Richard, having a charger connected during jump starting may cause no great issue.... I am ever happy to learn from your vastly greater knowledgebase Richard.

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Apologies George blush I can see the bigger picture now and hence agree with your comments. I'm familiar with the permanent charger connection option as that's what I have on my Roadster, part of the 4 amp Maypole charger kit and very similar to Ctek option.

Originally Posted by Dutch
I'm getting one of the small jump packs. I'm going to take off the clamp ons and replace them with the connector that also used on the charger. That way I can plug in the jump pack without having to take off the bonnet. As I'll be jumping what is a lawn mower battery I don't think I'll have a problem with the smaller wire size. We'll see :-)

Dutch, it's a great idea to have a permanent plug-in charger connection to benefit battery top up when car hasn't been used for a while. As George (Luddite) suggests though, please don't be tempted to adapt a jump start battery to these cables though.

Not sure what power your lawnmower battery has, but if it's to assist in any significant way an attempt to jump start your car with those one litre pots, current in the order of a hundred or more amps is going to burn up charger cables in short order!

From what you have told us the charge system is not working at all so if you need to move car a short distance to allow repair, would simply suggest charging up the battery fully with charger. Maybe take the jump start battery as a backup, but please only use as intended directly across battery.


Richard

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Originally Posted by Dutch
In the meantime we're keeping the car on a charger. I'm getting one of the small jump packs. I'm going to take off the clamp ons and replace them with the connector that also used on the charger That way I can plug in the jump pack without having to take off the bonnet. As I'll be jumping what is a lawn mower battery I don't think I'll have a problem with the smaller wire size. We'll see :-)

My son is going to take the car out tomorrow to see how quickly the battery charge drops.

FYI my experience with these Lithium packs has been mixed. The 1st (claimed to handle a 2l diesel startup) didnt have the oomph to start the M3W. The largest pack I could find at the time on Amazon had the oomph but the clampon was faulty (it worked with the 1st pack's clampon luckily). Interestingly it had enough Lithium content to require special courier service (both on delivery, and return when I sent it back due to the faulty clamp)...


M3W5sp 2015, MSCC, MTWC, Oxon UK
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i have been using a lithium battery and a tender for about 2 years and zero problems since. it spins this big motor easily.
Btw, it is much lighter if that is of interest.
Antigravity battery I believe it is the HD-20. I posted the install here in TM.

Last edited by LightSpeed; 18/09/22 01:04 AM.

2019 M3W Sold and is now in Las Vegas enjoying the showgirls :-)

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