Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) What Did You Do To Your Morgan Today?

Made a set of chassis/gearbox mounting u bolts for my 1933 Super Sports with the help of my 78 year old Dad wielding the oxy torch and me doing the hammering.

Made a fixture to check the width as well as hold them whilst I threaded them. Made a former to clamp in the vice to bend the flattened steel round, made an extension to a die stock to enable the u bolts to be threaded.

Made up 16 nuts on the lathe - I could only get the correct grade of steel in 10mm diameter not the original 3/8 so made the nuts from 0.600 stainless hex with a M10 x 1.5 thread.

Made up a set of 4 gearbox nuts, .820 stainless hex, 1/2 BSF, double length and drilled them for lock wiring.

Changed the fuel pump on my 1968 Plus 4 from electric back to mechanical to due to overfueling, ran out of hose clips so called it a night at 11.30

Arwyn

That's a decent day's work Arwyn! .... having fitted the 90° drive and new speedo cable on Monday I found the speedo didn't work .... by crawling underneath with it on jackstands and having Mrs Image turn the rear wheel I could see the drive working and a drill proved the cable and speedo .... turned out the square hole in the drive output was made too big and wasn't engaging the square end of the cable.

Pulled the drive out and sent it on it's way back this morning.

Hopefully I'll have a working mechanical speedo by early next week .... keep using the GPS one til then.

K

Drive and cable back from Speedograph .... fitted them today and after a test drive I'm pleased to have the original mechanical speedo working .... nice and accurate compared to the GPS one (which I double checked against my Defender speedo which by some quirk of tyre size was always dead on) .... good steady needle with no wandering or wobble.

Having got the temperature gauge working fine (there's a common thread of the previous owner not being a fan of instruments actually working properly 🙂)

The only outstanding thing is the Tacho .... the said previous owner fitted an electronic ignition module into the distributor and the car has the 'I' tach rather than the 'C' tach it needs to match the electronic ignition rather than the old points.... Spydia do a conversion PCB ... not exactly 'plug and play' but the dismantling and mods/soldering needed don't scare the former electronics tech in me ..... has anyone done the conversion? .... the youtube vids they link on their page are very good, but you can't beat hearing from someone independent who's actually done it.

K

I spent an hour or so under my Morgan applying Lanoguard to it.

I don't generally drive my car on wet roads, but I thought I'd give this a go then I would may be more inclined to do so.

I bought the Underbody and Chassis kit (2 litres of Lanoguard, a pot of grease and a sprayer).
Painted all the nuts / sharp edges with the grease and then sprayed the Lanoguard.







Time will tell as to how well this product works for me, but it has great reviews AND its a British company

Keith, if you mean this conversion https://spiyda.com/smiths-rvi-rvc-conversion-board.html then yes, I used it on the old classic Mini some years ago, after I had fitted a covert electronic ign kit & the old Smiths tacho stopped reading

Had to download some sound files to the laptop to calibrate, but now more accurate and reliable, Chris the inventor is very helpful too

Cheers Cooperman .... it seems to use simple audio WAV files at 1khz and 2Khz to calibrate the tach .... will order one up and give it a go .... not overly expensive for what it is .... certainly way cheaper than a new Tacho.

Thanks

K

Fixed a loose rear light bean can noticed whilst washing the car. In this case the rear o/s indicator housing although similar mounts for others. Looked on inside of wing and surprised to see only one flimsy M4 stud holding it in place!

Normally two studs are moulded into the composite housing but the lower one had made a successful bid for freedom complete with nut/washer/spacer. Maybe over-tightened during build.



Found a long M5 screw that was a comfortable fit in the remaining hole. Cleaned this out thoroughly, chopped head off screw and epoxy glued in remaining stud. Should hold well as fitted deep inside body. Will re-assemble tomorrow when glue fully cured.

This morning (and yesterday evening) I fitted a pair of Roger's beautifully-made spring assisters to my Roadster. Took me a long time. I have seen posts on TM by other users who must have better facilities/lighting/tools/skills/experience than me, to be able to do the job much quicker. Too late I realised it would have been sensible to remove the battery, but I find that a hassle in itself ! (the angle of the photos is misleading; the rubber stops are centred over the springs).

Of course we had to go out for a test run in the sunshine this afternoon, and it has made a difference. I can't quantify how much, but it helps by eliminating a lot of the crashyness over some of our uneven New Forest roads and the sleeping policemen in the supermarket car park.

[If anybody knows how, this post probably should be moved to one of the old threads on the spring assisters].

Fitted a charge point to keep Monty's battery on float during the long winter months.....

Now you see it


host images online

Now you don't.


host images online

Back the car into the garage as normal and simply plug Monty's battery directly into my charger, job done

Had a day off work today so designed a hydraulic brake system for my 1933 Super Sports. Basically it comprises early 7" Morris Minor front brake backplates with FIAT 500 brake drums.

To get it to work properly I needed an 8" chuck for my lathe, my local machinery dealer had one in stock but needed a Camlock backplate fitting to it. Spent this evening doing that.

Arwyn