Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Revs not going to idle

Thanks both.
Just wiped it down with a clean cloth and tested it electrically connected but not fitted so I could see the plunger work , which it did.
Reassembled and tickover seemed fine , so pending a trial run I am calling it.

Postscript : tickover now fine. My gut feel is simply breaking and making the connector sorted mine out.
Googling the part number on the Air Control valve itself ( 228W8569S ) gave this , which visually looks identical , and if it plays up again for 11 quid is worth a punt. Has anyone else tried this part ?
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ridex/814...lPitb_L7SYhLolaEF7y1Em-Ur_RoCszUQAvD_BwE

You could pay £11 or you could pay substantially more to have the S&S name associated with it!

I’m having the same problem.
Installed a new throttle cable. No result.
Swapped the Idle Control Valve with my other M3W but that also didn’t solve the problem.
So it could be the Throttle Position Sensor can I adjust this without using the S&S software ?
Or are there any other things to check ???
Any help highly appreciated.

Laurens, if you installed a new cable did you thoroughly clean the pedal area so the pedal can return to zero?

The TPS unit seems to be a culprit and another place to look but as Bluebricked said it can be adjusted. It can be adjusted without the S&S software but it is more accurate that way.

Do you have an adjustment procedure for this please Lightspeed?
I have the same issue.
Thanks

Check the seals of the inlet ducts on the cylinder head, the throttle angle sensor should provide around 230 with Protune at idle.

No, I have never had to adjust it so never figured it out. I could be very wrong but without it in my hand, looking at the photo from Ebay, that plunger would need to not extend as far and therefore putting very thin shims between it and the throttle body looks like it would allow it to return to a lower idle, but that just a guess. I could also be possible to adjust through ProTune BUT that might require an unlocked ECU.

I can imagine that the plunger that extends and pushes on the butterfly is not fully retracting. Removing that motor and trying to clean the plunger and getting it to operate off the engine to look for extension and retraction might be something to do, but first find out the operating voltage for that motor.

Don't try and operate the Idle Air Control valve when not installed, the plunger will end up on the other side of the room, don't ask... There is a test mode in Protune 2 that will test things like the check engine lamp, ignition test and fuel pump operation, it will also operate the Idle air Control Valve and you can watch and hear it's operation.

Today swapped the Oxygen sensors with our other M3W. No results.
When engine is cold or just warm, idle is like normal.
When engine gets hot (after +/- 5 miles) problems with idle starts.
Sometimes normal rpm. but most times not. Remains for a short moment around 2000 rpm. after that it drops to 900 rpm. when at standstill.
But now the strange things starting. When going downhill and put the car in neutral gear the idle remains all the time around 2000 rpm !
As long you’re driving, even for a few minutes.
Slowing down for a stop it drops back to normal idle.
Completely weird.
If it would be the TPS or the IAC it wouldn’t run normal the first 5 miles as well to my opinion.
For sure the manifold valve is moving freely as you hear it closing when depressing the throttle.
It’s not the pivot point from the throttle as that’s well lubricated.
One more point is that last week we did a 400 miles tour and we had the idea that the M3W with the bad idling used much more fuel as normal but didn’t checked that carefully. It only came to mind when filling up gas.
What to check next ???
No I’m sorry I don’t have a computer with Protune and if I would have I’m not sure if I could figure out how to use that computer program. 🥴

Hi Laurens
Since you don't have Protune access, I'd suggest getting a voltmeter on to the throttle position sensor wires. I have adjusted it this way and it cured various odd symptoms. I can't honestly remember the voltages that you want to see at closed and fully opened throttle, but you have a working one to compare it to. In theory it's a sealed, calibrated unit but in reality it's easily adjusted, though you might have to remove some silicone sealant that covers one of the adjusting screws.
The other thing that can cause issues is the connectors on the TPS and on to the idle air control valve, if they have been disconnected they sometimes don't quite connect together properly, or a little bit of corrosion can form on the contacts and it can be as simple as disconnecting and reconnecting them a few times to clean the contacts and get things working properly again.