Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Changing brake fluid 2010 Roadster

Been working on some clutch hydraulics today, this is why you should try and get as much of the old fluid out of the master cyl / feed bottle before you start bleeding or you're just flushing this muck down the lines

I gave my reservoir a stir up before syringing it out as there was some cruddy sediment on the bottom, and it came out like that.

What are these and where do they attach? Is it something that the pedal presses against?

Later trads use a plunger switch on the brake pedal, mounted on a bracket so that the brake pedal movement closes the contacts in the switch.

Vw use the same method, and doubtless many other manufacturers do the same.

In my early days of Roadster ownership, I fitted a relay, as noted above. Then later on I happened to have a microswitch from Maplins, so made a simple bracket and set it up like the plunger switch.

How did you wire the switch in dave? Is it as simple as removing the connections from the original switch, and extending them to the contacts on the switch?

It's a simple relay rewire in the conventional way. I piggy backed off the original pressure switch initially, then switched the relay through the microswitch instead of through the original switch. It was a long time ago, but plenty of wiring diagrams on line.

I think Craig Jezz recently changed his plunger switch. That set up might be easier to fit.

Thanks Dave, hopefully Craig will be along with his way. Easy is key for me 😂

Yes I had to replace mine, very easy to change, I’m not sure if my 4/4 set up would be the same as others though?. Mine has two switches, one Is the 1213C which I believe talks to the ECU, the other is a 1212C which operates the brake lights.

1212C (brake) when in rest position is open circuit
1213C when in rest position is closed circuit


I think that’s right ? HJF (Harry) on here is has all the experience and knowledge of how these switches operate. He helped me. Thanks Harry

A good move Leroy. I'm sure CCL were familiar with your LED requirements as they have a good background to Morgan's now, having helped several of us out. For reference though expect them to send two dual intensity red stop/tail lights with BAY15d base and one high intensity red stop light with BA15s base for Cobra repeater.

I use mine with clear lens but they work very well with red as well.

If your present hydraulic switch is working fine I would leave it in place as LED brake light current draw will be so much less than filament.

Yes Craig, you are absolutely right. I had to replace the other switch that controls the ECU. It was a year long nightmare because I didn't know where the fault was and I didn't know that switch existed. This switch was broken which meant that even without brake pedal pressure the circuit was always open although it should be closed without brake pedal pressure. I had no constant throttle and the engine died when accelerating. It was only with the help of other TMs that I found out what was wrong. Just in case your car does not drive well in this way later on, this switch, which is only opened when braking, is a possible and obvious source of error.