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tow bar
by G Walker - 24/08/26 06:52 PM
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Forums39
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Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,767 Likes: 21
Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,767 Likes: 21 |
And finally.... Wiring up Econoseal Connectors requires good light, sharp vision and the right tools..... This is an Econoseal Connector on the new Indicator lamp... ![[Linked Image]](https://www.tm-img.com/images/2022/10/19/Econoseal.jpg) Note....the new wires are not the same colour as on the wiring loom... green is live, black is neutral. So I had to improvise... First, remove the bullet connectors from the tails on the loom. One was corroded..... Try to fit the Econoseal fitting to the tails that were left was beyond me, working under the front wheel arch, in the dark, even with a head torch and magnifying glasses. So I cheated and used a small chocolate block connector. The Econoseal I fitted with short tails.....easy on the bench. Connected it all up and it works!! I was VERY Happy!. Tomorrow I'll remove the chocolate block connector and replace with crimp on tube connectors and cover with shrink wrap, tidy up the excessively long connector wire in the new light and the job is done. I'll also strip down the old light unit and see if the area of failure is obvious!! - good job Peter  I don't know if you were aware, but you can get the tube connectors (and also/alternatively the heat shrink) with a glue insert. Waterproof Heat Shrink Butt Wire Connectors Once you have crimped the wires ,you heat the tube/shrink as normal and the glue melts/flows and seals the joint. It works really well and creates a proper waterproof seal.... James
Aero8 , Series 1 - Boston Green
RR Evoque P300E Autobiography
Smart Brabus Convertible
Monkey Z125
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Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 535 Likes: 1
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 535 Likes: 1 |
Great suggestion James - I'll definitely get some of those.
Cheers, Paul
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Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 12,255 Likes: 317
Scruffy Oik Member of the Inner Circle
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Scruffy Oik Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 12,255 Likes: 317 |
I don't know if you were aware, but you can get the tube connectors (and also/alternatively the heat shrink) with a glue insert.
I certainly wasn't aware, these look really handy. Thanks James.
Tim H.
1986 4/4 VVTi Sport, 2002 LR Defender, 2022 Mini Cooper SE
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 8,655 Likes: 407
Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 8,655 Likes: 407 |
And finally.... Wiring up Econoseal Connectors requires good light, sharp vision and the right tools..... This is an Econoseal Connector on the new Indicator lamp... Note....the new wires are not the same colour as on the wiring loom... green is live, black is neutral. So I had to improvise... First, remove the bullet connectors from the tails on the loom. One was corroded..... Try to fit the Econoseal fitting to the tails that were left was beyond me, working under the front wheel arch, in the dark, even with a head torch and magnifying glasses. So I cheated and used a small chocolate block connector. The Econoseal I fitted with short tails.....easy on the bench. Connected it all up and it works!! I was VERY Happy!. Tomorrow I'll remove the chocolate block connector and replace with crimp on tube connectors and cover with shrink wrap, tidy up the excessively long connector wire in the new light and the job is done. I'll also strip down the old light unit and see if the area of failure is obvious!! I've worked on several of those Econoseal connectors Peter and there are many pitfalls although the worst is removing pins (male or female) from existing body. I now have a set of picking tools purchased on eBay one of which works perfectly for this task. Note there are YouTube videos showing how such tools allow removal of pins. Assuming the tails on replacement bulb holder were long enough I would have assembled the male Econoseal kit you bought onto them on the bench then inserted the plug through mount hole. It worked for me when I upgraded front indicator holder to twin filament type to accommodate switchback LED's. I admit working on the loom side is more difficult though under wheel arch. I add pins to bared cable ends after first sliding rubber plugs with barbs facing body and pins correct way around, then just crimp as soldering may leave pin too bulky. Pins are then individually inserted into body listening for the click when secure. Rubber inserts then pushed fully home and yellow pin guide inserted from other end. When finally mating male to female body I first ensure that pins on new connector are all perfectly aligned. I then add a smear of silicon grease to body of both parts which smooths the connection - no smutty remarks please 
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 15,794 Likes: 15
Formerly known as Aldermog Member of the Inner Circle
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OP
Formerly known as Aldermog Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 15,794 Likes: 15 |
With the benefit of hindsight I should have ordered a holder with tails supplied! As you say, they are fiddly to work on. All the You Tube videos showed the use of clever trimming and crimping tools... fine on the bench but not under the car!
The replacement light unit had massively long tails with a connector fitted, again 20/20 hindsight I should have chopped the connector off, shortened the wire and fitted a new connector: it was all a steep learning curve!
Now it is done with the long excess wire coiled up and secured with zip ties.. all very tidy and something to forget.
And yes, silicone grease made the final insertion easy and, I hope, watertight!
Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,663 Likes: 487
Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
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Just barreling along Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 8,663 Likes: 487 |
I dissected the old light unit....the bulb holder was full of water and the contact for the base of the bulb had corroded to almost nothing.
The message here is that even everything looks fine on the outside it may not be inside. Now, should I check front the N/S unit?
I should make clear that the front indicator failure was not part of the initial problem with the rear lights. They still work...and the battery remains charged, 12.3v. Peter, personally I would, then you have time to rectify at your leisure
Jon M
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 8,655 Likes: 407
Needs to Get Out More!
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Needs to Get Out More!
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 8,655 Likes: 407 |
Another useful aid when tidying wiring under wheel arches. Click image for source. ![[Linked Image]](https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/image/cache/catalog/products/normal/20151118_11-1100x1100w.JPG) Advantage is it can be retro-fitted with everything in place. I've used it to protect brake hose as well where they rub on brake reaction bars.
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 28,888 Likes: 350
Salty Sea Dog Member of the Inner Circle
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Salty Sea Dog Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 28,888 Likes: 350 |
Spiralwrap - such a useful product. Not just for automotive use either 
Graham (G4FUJ)
Sold L44FOR 4/4 Giallo Fly
'11 MINI Countryman Cooper D All4
'90 LR 90 SW
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 15,794 Likes: 15
Formerly known as Aldermog Member of the Inner Circle
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OP
Formerly known as Aldermog Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 15,794 Likes: 15 |
I will check the N/S and if needed, clean and dry it out!
I'd rather not spend another £90,00!!
Peter,
66, 2016 Porsche Boxster S
No longer driving Tarka, the 2014 Plus 8...
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Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 5,432 Likes: 465
Charter Member
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Charter Member
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 5,432 Likes: 465 |
Peter, if the cable supplying the light units slopes down into the back of the light then water/damp can make it`s way past failing rubber seals and end up causing the kind of corrosion you describe If you ensure the last few inches of cable rise up to enter the rear of the lamp assembly, there may be less chance of dampness affecting the unit.
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