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+1 👍


M3W brings back the FUN in driving

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Originally Posted by JohnMat
LightSpeed was told by S&S that the wet sumping was a reed valve issue. Details in this post.

Mine has done it from new.

When they told me that I was surprised and figured out they did not want to admit it was something more complex, like oil seeping past the pump, so I left it alone in regards to poking the tiger that held the spare parts.

I got this out of the S&S manual.

[Linked Image]

In a completely sealed system there could be a pressure/backpressure in the tank but the minute it is open oil would flow past the pump vanes.


2019 M3W Sold and is now in Las Vegas enjoying the showgirls :-)

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Originally Posted by LightSpeed
Originally Posted by rcmatt
not to hijack a thread, but I am now finding smoking (mostly from the right at start up. Then it goes away.

What do the plugs look like?

plugs look fine, but probably because when I take it out I will tend to drive an hour or more


Rodger
2018 M3W "Dreamers on the Rise"
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old Goldwings and a couple of Harleys
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Originally Posted by rcmatt
Originally Posted by LightSpeed
Originally Posted by rcmatt
not to hijack a thread, but I am now finding smoking (mostly from the right at start up. Then it goes away.

What do the plugs look like?

plugs look fine, but probably because when I take it out I will tend to drive an hour or more

Have you put a scope into the cylinders? You can easily check out the cylinder walls for scoring with an inexpensive WiFi to phone scope.

This was a quick look into the cylinders after2500 miles. The hone marks are still visible meaning that the engine is still not broken in! Needed more gentle time in my opinion.

[Linked Image]

No scoring of the walls.

Last edited by LightSpeed; 13/08/23 01:38 PM.

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Honing marks are visible over most of an engines life, say for at least the first 70%, perhaps as high as 80-90% of its nominal lifespan. On an air cooled twin like the X-wedge in the M3W I would guesstimate that lifespan at 50-60k miles unless it's mostly highway miles, in which case I would go higher.

During the break in period, which is typically very short with modern rings, the 'peaks' left behind by the honing process are quickly worn down while the (visible) grooves remain. These are an essential component of maintaining an oil film on the cylinder walls during operation. As the miles pile up, eventually the cylinders will wear smooth, blow-by will increase, and effective compression will reduce.

As an example, on my last BMW which I sold at ~185k miles, the purchaser did a comprehensive pre-sale inspection including a boroscope which still showed a visible, but fading crosshatch pattern. (synthetic oil changed every 5k).

So visible crosshatch grooves are in no way an indication of 'break-in' per se on a modern FI engine using modern oils and piston rings.


For those raised in the days of carburetors, significant bore wear (i.e. crosshatch gone) could occur well before 100K miles, as this was primarily down to the imprecision of carburetion and the resulting 'bore wash' from excess fuel during much of the running cycle. Modern Fuel Injection (FI), aided by better compression ring material and oils, have done wonders to extend engine life.

Last edited by Bitsobrits; 13/08/23 04:11 PM.

Steve
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Thanks for the education Steve, constant learning is a good thing.

I know that mine does not smoke and there are not gouges in the cylinder wall and i think Roger needs to look for that. Of coarse it could be worn valve guides too.


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currently I am not getting smoke at start up.... Having driving old gold wings I am certainly used to left handed oil smoke at start up


Rodger
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Originally Posted by planenut
...It's a chance to do some useful wire locking as well 😊.

[Linked Image]

Just found my newly fitted oversized sump plug and.or washer was possibly not sealing (cue a fair amount of new oil over my garage mat / floor, oil dripping from the plug, and no obvious other leak point). Need to investigate some wire locking, but couldn't see what would be locked to where... hmmm this gives me some ideas!


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Possibly a small amount of high temp silicone sealant on the adaptor threads on assembly if it is leaking from there, or a Viton O ring under the adaptor, as with the original plug? Don't over tighten it or you will be in danger of pulling the alloy case threads again.

As for wire locking, I would lock the adaptor to the oil pressure switch by drilling a hole across two flats, then that will stay locked and not require disturbing when removing the drain plug. Finally lock the drain plug to the adaptor, always "pulling' in a tightening direction.


[Linked Image]

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H
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The great thing of our M3W is experimenting.

Personally I think one of the best solutions is using a Stahlbus oil-drain as described in our bevel box project Stahlbus-drain-on-recon-bevelbox
You have them in several thread sizes so making a new bolt-thread or a coil is perfect, because it will be the last time you ever use this bolt-thread.

To protect this and the rest I made a stone guard Stone guard

see picture

[Linked Image]


One ant does not know anything, 2000 are a super-intelligent brain. That's like this helpful forum.
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