Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Fog Light Wiring

Don't be afraid of dropping the dash (as in lowering/removing it). Probably been covered elsewhere on TM numerous times, but here's my 10-step guide as to how I do mine on the Roadster (I've done it on my own a couple of times -- having a buddy to assist would be good if your are not a Billy No Mates like me). Removal and re-fitting takes me about 40 mins plus the time taken to do whatever is needed behind the dash:

1. Disconnect the battery (unless you want to risk shorting something and burning-out the dash, the rest of the car, your garage, and your house....);
2. Slide the seats back as far as possible, and open the doors about a foot each side to create room for manoeuvring the dash;
3. Slacken the steering column lock and lower the steering wheel as much as possible (you can remove the wheel if you really want to);
4. Remove the little black screws with captive washers, that secure the tray beneath the dash -- don't lose them, but they are magnetic for when you drop one on the carpet and it disappears under the seat -- use a telescopic magnetic pick-up tool;
5. Drop or remove the tray;
6. Lock or wedge the glovebox lid closed, or carefully use masking tape -- this will stop it from flapping about while you are working;
7. Mask the areas around the heads (for when your screwdriver slips) and remove the three Phillips-head screws that hold the dash in place, starting with the outer ones and leaving the middle one until last (and as above, don't lose the cup washers);
8. The dash will now have almost fallen out, except the steering column cowl will stop it from doing so -- you can remove that too if you wish.

Now do whatever you need to regarding switches etc. While the dash is out, think about attending to these jobs too:
(a) Check for (and remove) the fine dust from the varnish on the dash that has abraded against the top of the cowl.
(b) Tidy-up any loose bits of the wiring loom;
(c) Ensure that all plugs/sockets are mated together properly (clean the contacts with switch cleaner to be sure);
(d) Check that all the wiring to the instruments, switches and warning lights is firmly attached and not corroded;
(e) Check that the heater control knob operates smoothly (and grease if necessary);
(f) Take the opportunity to make sure the nuts on the bolts securing the lower screen mounts are tightened (another potential source of rattles);
(g) Check on the windscreen washer tubes (and at this stage you can also check that the nuts which hold the jets in place are not loose and causing a rattle);
(h) Now is also the time to temporarily loosen the nuts that secure the dials in place, so that you can carefully pry-out the instruments and clean/polish the bezels;
(i) Brush and/or vac out the entire area behind the dash to remove the moths and cobwebs that may have taken-up residence.

9. Repeat steps 1-8 above in reverse, and when complete, polish the dash (with a soft cloth, and I use furniture burnishing cream then car wax);
10 Have a beer with your helper buddy (or just on your own, boo hoo).

And if I've missed anything, other TM'ers will tell you !

I lower the wheel then cover housing with a towel and set it back up. That way you can undo the screws and slowly lower the wheel with the dash. As you lower it slowly take photos of the wiring as some plugs may pull out.
Some cars have 4 screws holding it on not 3.

For ref that round heater switch is about 26 dia and your switch is 28.6 x 16 but I hope I'm wrong...

Regarding replacing dash I found on mine there were two sets of wood screw holes (from new!) and it took a while to find the right set. I was successful when I partially secured the centre one first after jiggling dash to be centered and pushed up high against coaming. Correct side screw holes were then found relatively easily.

Richard that is why I use the steering wheel cowl. You can raise it slowly to hold the dash in positon

True but it needed further help in my case.

See you at 1200.

Hmmm, yes Rog, 28.6 H x 16mm W



I can't see there being any issue to the front of the panel, even with the bezel nut included it looks like I only need 14mm.



But you're right, there may not be enough space for the switch body at the back? I doubt the 16mm of space I need for the switch width will present an issue, but will I have the necessary 28.6mm of real estate required to accommodate the height of the switch?


Here's a simple overlay showing the space I need.....



Given you've now confirmed the heater switches are 26mm dia my twin additional toggle switch idea is now looking a bit sketchy, but I'll carefully measure up when the switches arrive as it's the only way to know for sure. However, it's now looking likely I'll need to revert to the central position under the ribbon cable as indicated above in red.

After all that

I've now been out to the car and there are additional complications, the heater control switches are mounted on studs that seriously further restrict the space between them under the ribbon cable

I can now see why Rog went with this setup.

img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/cnf106zo01qkzkd/fog%20switch.jpg[/img]

Where did you buy that switch bracket Rog?

Thanks, Dave.

It’s a homemade bracket with a squirt of black paint. The switch I had floating around spare from another job. A temp fix for now. Funny how things fail just before the MOT



At least it would get those Marchals lit up and then you can think about a longer term plan.

Exactly Rog, I desperately need to see the mystical golden glow of the beautiful Marchals before the big freeze comes and trips to the garage become far less enticing

A Princely sum of £3.00 snagged me this, and it comes with a free momentary switch too, for that price it's not even worth getting the tools out