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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 5,108 Likes: 56
Black Rat Charter Member
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Black Rat Charter Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 5,108 Likes: 56 |
Thanks Peter, mine is mediocre too and I have wrapped all the pipes with thick heat insulation tape. I need to look at the heater box.
Keith 2013 narrow bodied + 4 Ruby.
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 14,723 Likes: 149
Member of the Inner Circle
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OP
Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 14,723 Likes: 149 |
Thanks Peter, mine is mediocre too and I have wrapped all the pipes with thick heat insulation tape. I need to look at the heater box.
Yes I have used insulation wrap too. To my mind they should have swapped the alternator to the other side (kits are available) and thereby shortened the tube runs significantly. Even as it is one of the tubes connecting to to the aircon radiator is excessively long and if I have to do a radiator change which involves emptying the gas I might see if I can get that changed. Blocking hot engine bay air from entering the air vents makes a huge difference. One other watch point is the drains for condensate. On mine there are some plastic tube that run from the bottom of the in-cabin box that can be easily crimped and there is also two spigots on the right hand side of the under bonnet box near the firewall and just above the footwell. I had to fit a drain tube to that as condensed water was travelling to the main cabling grommet and getting past that to drip into the footwell. The main problem, from an aircon point of view, is that there are no dash vents. It has crossed my mind to rig up some ducting and a couple of flatish vents just under the dash but there really is not much space.
Peter
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 5,108 Likes: 56
Black Rat Charter Member
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Black Rat Charter Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 5,108 Likes: 56 |
I agree it could do with dash vents.
Keith 2013 narrow bodied + 4 Ruby.
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Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 120
L - Learner Plates On
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L - Learner Plates On
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 120 |
Good afternoon, in terms of the radiator, bite the bullet and get hold of Simon at Sifab, for one of his works of art. Great piece of kit Aluminium rad is the way to go, it comes with everything you need and is simple to fit. I did mine on my driveway in Dubai took around 3 hours start to finish. Engine runs 8 degrees cooler even in the heat of the Dubsi summer months.
Steve Grisdale
Morgan 3.0l Roadster 2010 aka BORIS Triumph Thunderbird 2000 Volvo XC 60 x 3 Volvo C30
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,059 Likes: 20
Talk Morgan Guru
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Talk Morgan Guru
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,059 Likes: 20 |
Good afternoon, in terms of the radiator, bite the bullet and get hold of Simon at Sifab, for one of his works of art. Great piece of kit Aluminium rad is the way to go, it comes with everything you need and is simple to fit. I did mine on my driveway in Dubai took around 3 hours start to finish. Engine runs 8 degrees cooler even in the heat of the Dubsi summer months.
Good advice...
A Morgan Identified Fastidious Owner... 2011 4/4 Bespoke, 1981 Delorean, Auburn Boat Tail
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 14,723 Likes: 149
Member of the Inner Circle
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OP
Member of the Inner Circle
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 14,723 Likes: 149 |
Peter I had the same problem, a puddle on the floor and drops at the bottom of the radiator. First thought was the hose which was also wet. But my experience of 45 years as a plumber has taught me to always start looking at the highest point. And there it was! ![[Linked Image]](https://www.tm-img.com/images/2021/11/04/DSCI0656.md.jpg) The O-ring at the nipple to de expansion tank. ![[Linked Image]](https://www.tm-img.com/images/2021/12/01/P1080927.md.jpg) Couldn't see that without removing the cowl. ![[Linked Image]](https://www.tm-img.com/images/2021/12/01/20211026_114558.md.jpg) Here you can see how I fixed it. http://www.talkmorgan.com/ubbthreads.php/topics/726299/re-radiator-leaking#Post726299I finally got back to this issue today. When I made my original post I had looked at the header/overflow tank and the fluid level seemed to be at a minimum. It seems I did not look well enough because, as I discovered a few days later, it was almost empty. Accordingly I ordered 5 litres of red, ready to use, fluid and that arrived this morning. I put a little over a litre in the tank, more than was actually necessary, and ran the motor until the temperature gauge started to shift, ie warm but not hot, I then put the car back in the garage and had a good look at the point indicated by Paul and, guess what, even after about 10 minutes and not reaching running temperature and pressure, the area around the spigot was wet and the moisture was starting to wet the side of the radiator top tank. The next step will to be to get it up to full running temperature and check again. I have to do this without taking the car on the road as it has the insurance suspended at the moment: the Italian equivalent of SORN Obviously it is going to be a bit of work to remove the bonnets and radiator cowl to get at the spigot but that is work I can do myself and if replacing the 'O' ring resolves the problem I will be able to save the trouble and expense of a new radiator for the moment. Thanks to Paul for his suggestion on this.
Peter
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