Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) Mulfab Steering Bearing Fitting.

I am fitting the Mulfab Bearing kit to our Plus 8.
Instructions say

Remove the caliper, leaving hose attached and tie it out of the way.
Remove the two 5/16 bottom bolts from the rebound spring keeper plate, swing the bottom tie bar aside.
Put trolley jack under the bottom king pin nut to support.
Remove top oiler bolt.
Lower jack and king pin slides down, (about just over half way)

I have heard that the spring is very strong and compressed (140 lbs/inch) and could cause damage..
Is it a safe practice to do as they say? not having attempted this before. Or am I just being a "pussy".

Happy Miles.

I've done it using a jack buy most recommend slowly unloading/re-loading main spring using studding and nuts in place of the bottom 5/16" bolts, replacing one at a time. It's slow but more controlable and less to go wrong. Not sure why you need to remove brake calipers but do ensure brake hoses are not stretched.

Easier if you start by loosening kingpin oiler bolt a half turn as well.

Some keep them but most remove damper blades since the bearings effectively replace them.

Thanks very much for your help and knowledge Richard.
I presume the "studding" means to cut two lengths of threaded stud and use them to lower the King Pin rather than the 5/16th bolts?
I will remove the damper blades, the reason for the conversion.

Hope the weather doesn't spoil the occasional drive for you.

Cheers
Bryan.

Thanks for reply Bryan and yes use studding as you imagine, 8mm should work fine releasing one side then the other. Note that after stub axle is resting on lower cross tube there may be some residual compression in main spring but you can usually just wiggle it out, and back in again later.

Be careful re-engaging oiler bolt. The kingpin thread is quite fine with posssibility to cross thread. A short tapered drift used to align all the parts it fits through is ideal but others manage with a screwdriver or hex key as large as will fit, taking care not to damage threads.

I have found that if you position the axles stands close to the crosshead rather than the kingpin it makes it a bit easier



I replaced my kingpin bolts with stainless versions from John Worrall, so I bunged one of the old bolts in the lathe and turned off the threads in a gentle taper. Works a treat.

If you are using the studding method, there are a couple of tips which makes things easier

I.) Regularly oil the studding during the decompression/recompression to prevent the thread picking up/galling

Ii) a rachet ring spanner makes the job a lot easier

Arwyn

Here is a great link from one of our club members. This worked well for me when I rebuilt the front suspension last year.

https://madaboutmorgans.com/remove-and-reinstall-morgan-spindles/

Thank you all for your constructive comments. It certainly helps to give a clearer picture of how to go about it.
It's great to have a vehicle that can be worked on by enthusiasts and not have to send to a "specialist" every time.

Happy Miles
Bryan.