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Joined: Feb 2016
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Originally Posted by Jon G4LJW
This is one version of a car key RFID system:

https://cecas.clemson.edu/cvel/auto/AuE835_Projects_2011/Velankar_project.html

It may be possible for the capacitor to lose its ability to hold charge.


Interesting and informative article Jon particularly if it describes the immobiliser system in the Plus 4. Thoughts are that the electromagnetic field created by the coil surrounding the ignition key barrel would require it's location to be critical to the magnetic core it interfaces with given the greater energy is transferred from that not the coil per se.

DaveW (thread here) gained some improvements in his by effectively putting it closer to the key born RFID. It strikes me that it's proximity to what becomes the magnetic core is of greater relevance than distance when considering efficient transfer of electromagnetic energy to the capacitor within RFID.

Experience with induction hobs and cordless (induction) phone charging confirm positioning is critical, maybe explaining John's findings above.


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
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One thing I haven't tried is to warm up the coil and key before trying it out. Not a solution, but I'm curious. In 99% of cases, after the first cold start, mine works perfectly the rest of the day.


DaveW
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'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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I would take a bet if you left key in ignition overnight it would start from cold as well Dave.


Richard

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Originally Posted by RichardV6
Originally Posted by Jon G4LJW
This is one version of a car key RFID system:

https://cecas.clemson.edu/cvel/auto/AuE835_Projects_2011/Velankar_project.html

It may be possible for the capacitor to lose its ability to hold charge.


Interesting and informative article Jon particularly if it describes the immobiliser system in the Plus 4. Thoughts are that the electromagnetic field created by the coil surrounding the ignition key barrel would require it's location to be critical to the magnetic core it interfaces with given the greater energy is transferred from that not the coil per se.

DaveW (thread here) gained some improvements in his by effectively putting it closer to the key born RFID. It strikes me that it's proximity to what becomes the magnetic core is of greater relevance than distance when considering efficient transfer of electromagnetic energy to the capacitor within RFID.

Experience with induction hobs and cordless (induction) phone charging confirm positioning is critical, maybe explaining John's findings above.



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Not quite the same but very similar system on my 2011 4/4. I have 1 key that works every time. Well so far in 11 Years. The other key fails on occasion. Has done since new.


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This morning, I heated the key using my designated garage hairdryer for 30 seconds.

The immobiliser light went out immediately, before the key was fully inserted.

Hardly science, but interesting. I'll repeat it another day.


DaveW
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Thanks for that Dave ... I'll give it a try and report back laugh


Ian S

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[Linked Image]

This issue is prevalent on my Plus 4. The hole in the cover was enlarged so as the expose the immobiliser ring. Still have to touch the ring with the key fob in order to extinguish the flashing immobiliser light, even after the key has been left in the ignition. Sometimes it actually works without fiddling with the key - but not often. Extra security perhaps?

While I was at it the original black plastic cover was shortened to expose the ribbed steering column, outer end blanked off with a plastic sheet, beefed up with internal stiffening ribs and painted to match the car colour.

Note also the aluminium storage box hung from the side of the lower steering column cover. Good for a sun glasses case or suchlike. Roll on Summer.


Chris

2015 Plus 4 Silverlake Blue
(2014 3.7 Roadster Crystal Blue)
(2012 4/4 Sport Black)


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Oh Bugga......... Update frown

I followed Rog's instructions HERE to try and re-programme my non-working ignition key.
I discovered that my "other spare key" doesn't work either frown . So the re-programming wouldn't work. Which means I only have ONE functioning key (and if that fails I'm bugga'd mad )

I've just phoned Oakmere Motors to see what the options are...

Guy I spoke to said he'd double check, but as far as he's aware it means disassembling the barrel / transponder from my car, sending it (and the keys) down to the Morgan Factory and having the keys re-programmed, then shipping them back to Oakmere to have the barrel / transponder re-fitted.

Haven't got an idea of cost yet and will mean car off the road for the best part of a month frown

I'll update this thread when I hear more.

Not "happy" that this occurred on a car that is only 4 years old frown


Ian S

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Not sure if this will help but I broke one of my keys and went to my local shoe repair/watch battery shops.
He said no problem, took the good key I'd brought in with me. Scanned it into a computer thing, then took a blank from the wall, scanned that with the details from mine then cut the new key. All worked fine.
Might be worth going to one and asking.
Shop was called Timpsoms I think. they are in every town around here.

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