Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 Revs not going to idle

@ Dab of oppo. You wrote that the problem with the hazard warning light sorted itself. Did the problem disappear by itself?

@ Chris99. Thanks for the tip. In the connector C32, I've found a bent pin BW87 not sure if this caused any problems as I didn't open the connector before so that must have been bent a long time.

@ Richard. Thanks a lot for the thorough explanation of how the system works and is connected to each other. Even when it's not easy to understand for me I do my best to get a clue out of it.

As you advised I put on the hazard warning light switch and the fuel pump started, that moment I took out fuse 6 but that didn't stop the pump. Like 'Dab of oppo' I even can start the engine when the ignition switch is off or not in.

I checked the diodes in the wiring of the hazard warning light. I could find the green/red bomb tails. But didn't see the diode. It looked like the green/white bomb tail is taped in the loom so I could not check. I checked all wiring on chafing but didn't find any places that looked like chafed. Only found the connector pin which I wrote above, I've checked all other connectors and sprayed the pins with CorrosionX contact spray.

What I discovered was; when I take out fuse number 9 - GY32 - G41/42 the fuel pump doesn't start when I switch on the hazard warning light!
Hazard lights working normally. All other lights and instruments working normally. The fuel pump starts running normally when turning on the ignition key. So it looks like all is working normally when fuse 9 is out. What controls this fuse 9 ?

Regarding blowing the fuses 7-9-10 simultaneously. That only happened when I had the TSM from the other car in. With the original (which is now in) those three fuses don't blow simultaneously.

I could not do a test ride today to find out about the high idling because we had snow on the roads again. I hope tomorrow the snow will be gone so I can take the car out.

Thanks for update Laurens. Fuse 9 feeds to stalk switch (mode select) on G41 and instruments G42, both solid green cables.

Very slowly building up a picture of how everything works and then in a better position to understand what is wrong with yours.

Still an inspired guess but wonder if the immobiliser could be at the route of the problem. Thoughts based on the fact it handles keep alive circuits as well as those operated by ignition key. There is a shorting plug available that replaces the immobiliser for customers that didn't order that option (although many did). It provides four loops on eight pins and would be easy to make, but you would need a blank plug. Alternate may be to try immobiliser from your other car if feasible.

Re the immobiliser bypass, Ian Brett has a detailed write up of how to make the required plug. I'll ask him to post it here or email it to you.

Thanks Chris. Below is shot of plug from wiring schematic.



The four loops are to matching wire codes.

Hi Laurens

Some years i had a similar issue ie blown fuses and able to start motor without key but with emergency indicators on?
Having some problem recalling the details if which fuse etc but may have pictures somewhere. Will look and post later

I recall that there appeared to be multiple circuits to single fuse etc.

Went to auto electrician and they ended up separating and added another bank of fuses to provide single fuse per circuit.
Again will post pix when i can find them.
The idea was to be able to track back when fuse blew.
Happy to report that no fuses have blown since then. Its been several years now!

No idea on causes but happy that there is no issue now

I also have the immobiliser blank installed, which i made myself after finding the correct plug. This was prompted by failure of one of the proximity dongles causing us to get towed home! Took a while to decide the dongle was kaput. A replacement was horrendous cost, so went with the blank.

Hope this helps. Will look for pix in the morning
Cheers
Nigel

The immobiliser link plug is made from a AMP Multilock 070 12 way female plug, available from several sources, it's fairly common. It's an easy thing to make and small enough to carry as a travelling spare that could be a big help one day. It's also good for diagnosis as it eliminates the immobiliser if you have a problem. I hate electrical problems, as I am sure you do Laurens. I will email you the MTWC article, although you should be able to access it on the MTWC website.

Where do you find the femelle plug ?

Friends, thanks for all the good advise ! On the car there is NO Immobilizer installed. The shortcut plug, which was there since the beginning is checked yesterday as well and also sprayed with contact spray.

Atalante83 you can buy the plug and pins from a number of places, RS or Simtekuk in the UK for example. The actual plug is on the end of the immobiliser loom, follow it down from the silver box, unplug the loom from the immobiliser and plug in the manufactured link plug. Everything should work with no immobiliser functions.

Sorry to hear there is no immobiliser on your cars Laurens, another theory down the pan 🙁. If it's blowing fuses it's going to be wires touching something they shouldn't....just where??

Yes although not relevant now to Laurens problems the immobiliser interrupts both the starter and coil feeds. It actually provides a pair of parallel breaks for each with two cables from fuse 6 (fed by engine relay) for coil feed and two from the start relay. The immobiliser returns for each parallel feed are later joined together as single cable for the common coil supply via engine loom and starter motor solenoid when start relay operated. Reason for this could be to split the switching load or maybe just belt and braces. It also has its own permanent +12 volt supply and an ignition switch supply via fuse 11, in order to function. Tracing wires of course is a nightmare as all are black for anti-theft reasons.

Fuse 5 is also fed by engine relay as is fuel pump (normally) and powers the two lambda sensors, despite being labelled engine ignition.