I have an old but much loved Boxford CSB 4" swing lathe, a Warco WM14 mini mill and a Kerry pillar drill which I didnt use for this project.
I also have a Warco bandsaw which is very handy for rough sizing stock prior to machining.
I like to keep machine swarf to a minimum - its an indication of wasted time and money, the saw lets me get metal stock close to size with minimum waste.
The WM14 mill hit its limit for space under the quill ( Z axis ), many times making me wish I had bought something bigger, but in the end made do just.
I suspect its very similar machine to the Sieg , who have a very good reputation. My advice - go for the largest you can afford / justify !
It came with a built in DRO ( Digital Read Out ) system which is invaluable. This is the single most useful add on you can have.
The ability to drill hole spacing with confidence knowing mating parts with holes will align perfectly is amazing!
Previously I would have had to spend time making jigs and fixtures to get close to this level of accuracy, and then probably with compromises.
In large part I followed the Andrew Whale videos, which I think are excellent, differing only to suit tooling.
For this engine, a rotary table and boring head for the mill is also essential tooling.
For example ,as specified , the camshaft is made holding a 'blank' vertically in the rotary table, offset from the quill centre line by the cam lift, and with the boring head in the quill, cutting tool pointing inwards making rotary cuts around the cam shape. Confused ? I was until I tried it.
Many 'trial goes' were made until a satisfactory one emerged!
The con rods , designed following the 'blade and fork' method used on Harleys.
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Crank case with assembled crankshaft and timing gears.
The bar through the flywheels is a temporary aid to align the flywheels for crankshaft assembly.
It wont revolve if things dont line up!
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way beyond my limited skills.
