Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) immobiliser

Wondered if anyone with a roadster (2010) had bypassed their immobiliser.
I've had problems with it several times over the years.
Turn the ignition on and just get a rapid flashing immobiliser light.
Thought i'd solved it several times , new battery, new conditioner, connections, key etc.
I rarely use the mog now because of this and think i should be getting rid.

Ian, that must be annoying.

I know nothing about Roadsters or how to bypass a Roadster immobiliser. However it might be worth dropping the column shroud to identify the type of immobiliser antenna ring used. If your Roadster has a Ford ECU it might use one of these Ford PATs electronic modules below.

This module appears to be used across a few Ford variants that use their PATs system. It’s a potential fail point so I keep a spare ready for that day. I picked up my spare on Ebay for a tenner by searching on the part number.

Good luck.

Some info from Dave W thread here Ian concerning proximity of the key born passive RFID to immobiliser transponder surrounding ignition lock.

Thanks for the helpful replies guys, did some more investigating.today.
When I first tried a start, just got the fast flashing immobiser light.
Nice for it to happen in my garage rather than on a garage forecourt
like the last time.
After getting a screwdriver to remove the steering column cowl I tried the
key again .bloody thing started no problem.
Left running for 15 minutes to warm up then I went ahead and removed
the cowl (The coil is the same Ford unit that you show in the photo's Rog)
I tried the ignition again and got the dreaded fast flashing light.
Never been this regular before.
Battery fully charged, tried the coil in every position on the key barrel but
no joy.
Removed the under bonnet relay box cover to check that I was getting
full voltage, while there I pulled the relays and refitted them to make sure
they were seated properly.
Tried the ignition again and it worked no problem?
Couldn't get it to fail again today but determined that when working the coil
can be positioned anywhere on the barrel and it still detects the key.
The key is not detected by the immobiliser until turned, so you can't do the
detect and 20 second key turn that some models do.
Never had these problems with the hidden switch under the dash of my
spitfire 50 years ago.

Ian,
Belle my 2014 Roadster has relays that rise from the connection board. I found this out after hitting a bridge expansion joint in Holland where my indicators stopped working & the power steering stopped.
I pulled over & the car then wouldn't start.

I checked the relays & pushing in the fuel pump relay (it powers the ECU) all was restored.

Relays were replaced to be safe & I now have foam on the inside of the fuse box cover to stop them coming loose.

My 2005 Roadster after a drive in heavy rain wouldn't start. The immobiliser light stayed on. Later I found out that the fuel pump relay had shorted out & that powers the ECU. No power on the ECU & the immobiliser stays on.

I hope that helps. I'm no auto electrician but it seems to work.

Question:

when replacing the immobiliser antenna ring (as shown in Rog's picture) - does it need to be "married" with the key chip/immobilizer system? Or just "plug and play"?

No they don’t need to be married. I’ve been using one from a Mondeo in my home made ecu/chip programmer thingy. A slightly different form factor to the one we have but works fine with Morgan ecu’s.

Hi John
I would have changed the relays just to eliminate then as the cause
but couldn't find them in stock on e-bay (Tyco 0-1432793-1).
Is this the type you have or did you find a generic replacement.

I went to Halfrauds

I think that part number has been discontinued now Ian. I replaced fuel pump and ECU relays with known quality Durite 12 volt 30/40 amp diode mini changeover relays when I had an intermittent issue on my Roadster. Important they have built in quenching diode. Source below.