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#789995 14/11/23 04:40 PM
Joined: May 2019
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Dutch Offline OP
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I can start the car fine in the garage. It'll idle fine for 15 minutes or so to warm up. Then on a test drive it'll die after a couple of miles. Then really hard to restart. I've replaced the coil and ballast resistor to no avail. Same problem persists.

Just wondering what to try next ? Fuel pump ?

Electrics seem to be OK. Ignition switch is cold to the touch.

Any advice appreciated


Dutch Junge
194 Mound St
Logan, OH USA 43138

2012 3 Wheeler
1980 + 8
Dutch #790000 14/11/23 05:58 PM
Joined: Jun 2015
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Talk Morgan Expert
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You have posted this in the Plus 4/ Plus 6 CX arena, so it may not be seen by classic +8 owners!

Before chasing fuelling issues, I would carry a spare spark plug when next going out and if the engine fails again, take off a plug lead and attach it to the spare plug. Crank the engine and with the body of the plug resting on earthed metal, see if there is a visible spark.
I have known of faulty rotor arms in the distributor causing intermittent failures. Cheap and easy to replace so worth a try?


Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon

1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter
1958 Triton 650
1992 Triumph Trophy 900
Dutch #790001 14/11/23 06:02 PM
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Talk Morgan Expert
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Dutch,Are you running standard carbs,I know our American cousins love their own.Had a boat engine once the previous owner fitted a Rochester quadraget which required nearly twice the psi from memory took me ages to sort it. Check your fuel pressure once the basics are looked at good luck. You are on the wrong section by the way.... Em

Dutch #790016 14/11/23 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Dutch
I can start the car fine in the garage. It'll idle fine for 15 minutes or so to warm up. Then on a test drive it'll die after a couple of miles. Then really hard to restart. I've replaced the coil and ballast resistor to no avail. Same problem persists.

Hmmm.... If you don't go on the "test drive" will it die in the garage? Have you tried that?

Dutch,

My emails are long because you give us so little to go on. The biggest problem you are having is the lack of any testing or diagnostic method. A proper methodology is necessary or you will be running in circles with that car forever.

Your assumption that all is well with the ignition system merely because you changed the coil and added a ballast resistor is unproven. As I noted on the other forum, a bad ballast resistor can and will eventually damage everything down the line, sooner more often than later. Did you change your cap & rotor? Did you ever test if you had a spark when the car was NOT running. These areas remain question marks until you do so.

And it is bit premature to run off to get a new fuel pump, though having a backup for such a vital key part is always good. These days, new parts are as like to be faulty from the box as any. I have learned to only trust rebuilt parts, preferably to a higher quality. And it is a very odd fuel pump and/or relay that only works for twenty minutes then starts again the next day. I guess it could happen, but at this point, stay mainstream. And have you checked the pump and fuel flow when the engine stalls? You merely need to safely remove a fuel line nearest the engine making sure it does not drips anywhere near a hot part.

Next. Considering the maintenance personality of the previous owner, which I dwelled on in my last email for a reason, have you considered the car's current fuel filter and when it was last changed? It is very possible the fellow did not change fuel filters any more often than he changed the gearbox fluid..or spark plugs or air filters or anything else elementary maintenance requires. I have known so many Morgan situations where the consequences of a lack of maintenance forces owners, in desperation, to sell needlessly, often at a cutthroat price. Over time, all fuel tanks collect debris which should be dealt with and rarely is. And you have a mild steel tank, untreated in any way. 30 years is a LONG time for it to develop rust in flake form. Did you drain and filter it? You see when the fuel pump is working, any stuff collects at the filter after a short time of running, sucked there by the pump. The original fuel lines, if you still have them, are rubber and rubber rots. The filter becomes clogged after running and the car stalls. After a bit, the debris abates without any suction and the car starts again.

In any event, a new fuel filter costs next to nothing and you can swap one in minutes. But do a few minutes of testing of spark and fuel flow for us....when the car is not working

Your willie-nillie "method" of repair is common but VERY costly. Everyone will throw all sorts of possibilities at you with no real clue without the key and easy testing. Randomly throwing a stream of new parts at the car is rarely productive.

gmg

P.S. You ignition switch was HOT?!!


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