Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Morgan Three Wheeler & Super 3 What should I tighten up?

It has been so quiet here, I thought I would start a new thread. Context is I service my own M3W as the dealer is too far away, and I like doing it anyway.

Does anyone have a checklist of where I should be checking and tightening up nut and bolts? Given the extreme shaking from an S&S idle I assume this is a good thing to do?

Simple answer: every single bolt, nut and screw use Locktite Blue too.

I am not keen on the routine of check tightening everything and prefer to tighten it correctly on installation and lock it then. I like visible locking and use locking wire in some places (ex-aircraft engineer and old habits die hard) but I use Loctite 243 in most other places. As you say, the X-Wedge engine does introduce a lot of loosening if nuts and bolts are not secured correctly in the first place. Just tightening things up doesn't secure them, they will work loose. If you Loctite nuts and bolts don't check tighten them later as it breaks the seal.


I thought this forum had knocked off early for Christmas!

The valve cover cap screws seem to work loose and cause the sleeve/spacer on the fan shroud to depart the vehicle in motion. Then if you are lucky enough to find it the repair is simple, if you need a new spacer then MMC or make one from the pattern you have on the existing spacer that did not decide to leave. I found mine (amazing luck) but I have made two such spacers for fellow M3W owners who were not so lucky.

Every 3-wheeler has a nut just behind the wheel that needs constant tightening!

Very true. a counseling session is mandatory every quarter!

Of all the things to lose while driving, the the exhaust manifold bolts have bitten me twice! Because of the vibration two came out and trashed the threads in the block. I used heli-coils and Loctite on all four and they have all behaved since.

That’s a good one. I spent a few seconds trying to figure what nut behind the wheel.

Regarding the exhaust mounting at the cylinder heads:

Replacing the bolts with stainless studs and all metal locknuts is a better solution than bolts in that application, especially as the head is aluminum (aluminium?). Really don't understand why Morgan used bolts there. Using Loctite on alloy threads at a joint that sees repetitive tightening/loosening is just asking for trouble.

It's also helpful here to use the compressible copper ring type of exhaust seal (James Gaskets O-ring style for 1984 up Harley EVO motor) rather than the Morgan supplied graphite/stainless sponge type as the latter has a tendency to compress/loosen over time.

I did replace the stock studs with stainless studs and aircraft grade locking nuts along with a dab of high temp Loctite. It worked.

Everyone seems to forget that when this machine is at idle or startup, it vibrates. It is forever trying to lose parts. Always.

The idle and startup vibration I am more than convinced contributed to the cracking of the original frame. This machine at start presents more torque than, I dunno. It goes from zero to almost 100 lbs just like a steam engine.