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Rog #790216 18/11/23 07:13 AM
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I had the same on my s1 roadster but thankfully at the rad connector


JohnV6
2022 CX Plus Four
2025 MG ZS EV aka Trigger
uvk33n #790220 18/11/23 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by uvk33n
When my heater fan stopped working recently this was the state of the 9 way Molex which Roger refers to as a washing machine connector.

[Linked Image]

That’s impressive Ken, thanks for the pic thumbs

I believe the blower can draw 15.1A max, so the MLX might not be best suited for continuous operation.


Roger
2011 Plus 4
Rog #790222 18/11/23 09:15 AM
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And of course once a poor connection has developed the situation becomes self exaggerating as lower volts to fan means you will likely leave it on high setting for longer!


Richard

2018 Roadster 3.7
1966 Land Rover S2a 88
2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450
1945 Guzzi Airone
Rog #790223 18/11/23 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Rog
Originally Posted by uvk33n
When my heater fan stopped working recently this was the state of the 9 way Molex which Roger refers to as a washing machine connector.

[Linked Image]

That’s impressive Ken, thanks for the pic thumbs

I believe the blower can draw 15.1A max, so the MLX might not be best suited for continuous operation.
Interesting though that Morgan used this connector as a standard fitment on the pcb. It appears to be rated at only 13.5 A max. from the data sheet, so think they were pushing it a bit?


Doug
2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon

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U
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
That green wire with burnt insulation on its dash connector is main heater fan supply Ken. A dirty contact on the connector has caused resistance such that over time with fan on enough heat has built up to melt contact insulation, all without blowing the feeds 15 amp fuse.

Although I can accept that the reason for the plug to my fuel pump melting may have been the result of a dirty contact, I think the reason for the PCB Molex failure is that it was not up to the job.
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Years before the fuel pump plug melted I had a fuel pump relay fail because the casing had melted

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

The molex failure is the latest in a fairly long list of components not being up to the job.


Ken
Rog #790230 18/11/23 10:31 AM
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Not sure what current the fuel pump takes Ken but that Econoseal connector has a contact current rating of only 10 amps max. The pump is however fused at 15 amps!


Richard

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Originally Posted by RichardV6
Not sure what current the fuel pump takes Ken but that Econoseal connector has a contact current rating of only 10 amps max. The pump is however fused at 15 amps!
The fuel pump in my car (a 2005 Plus 4) is from a MK3 Mondeo (2000-2007). Ford use a 15 amp fuse so probably not surprising that the Econoseal connector melted.

Something else for anyone having fuel pump issues to watch out for. 🙄


Ken
uvk33n #790236 18/11/23 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by RichardV6
Not sure what current the fuel pump takes Ken but that Econoseal connector has a contact current rating of only 10 amps max. The pump is however fused at 15 amps!

Such things happen every few years at the MMC. When/if I hear of them, I list them for posterity. The company has not, at least in the past, done regular advisories to the authorities on such things as other companies do. Owners/dealers must find out about any and inform each other. They can then perform what is, typically, a quick fix to avoid sadness.

One of the earlier such issues is worth mentioning as it turns up often. It happened to the MMC when they adopted SPAL rad fans, otherwise a VERY wise move. The Production Department kept using the same relay, fuse and wiring as they had used with the earlier (whimpy) rad fans. The big SPALs have, comparatively, a much larger draw. A special wiring kit can be purchased from SPAL (or you can make you own if you understand wiring with parts sourced at the nearest factor) consisting of a BIG relay, 30 amp fuse and more potent wiring. Before the MMC figured this out, there was a plague of failed fans..which caused engine damage to non-alert owners who didn't keep an eye on the coolant temp gauge in traffic. The point is that many moggers of older cars switch (pun!) to SPALs or similarly potent fans, in a justified hope of mitigating their heating issues but forget to upgrade their way of wiring it in.

I shall put a note in the Plus 4 section to warn others. TY

gmg

Deejay #790260 19/11/23 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Deejay
Originally Posted by Rog
Originally Posted by uvk33n
When my heater fan stopped working recently this was the state of the 9 way Molex which Roger refers to as a washing machine connector.

[Linked Image]

That’s impressive Ken, thanks for the pic thumbs

I believe the blower can draw 15.1A max, so the MLX might not be best suited for continuous operation.
Interesting though that Morgan used this connector as a standard fitment on the pcb. It appears to be rated at only 13.5 A max. from the data sheet, so think they were pushing it a bit?

But at least they’re consistent…

I only got 12A rated relays on my board frown Some lucky owners got 16A rofl

[Linked Image]


Roger
2011 Plus 4
Rog #792200 16/12/23 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Rog
Originally Posted by Rog
Originally Posted by IcePack
Good work Roger. As a matter of interest, did you manage to find what had caused the original fault on the PCB ?
Thinking that it would be either a component failure or dry joint/track continuity fault. Both should be an easy fix. However if the fault is impossible to find their in shows the problem of these type of faults.
I haven’t actually confirmed the original fault yet Bob. However I have quickly powered the pcb up on the bench and can see that the fault it still there, the fog light is permanently on. It appears to be using a regular 2n3904 transistor as a switch/driver for the fog light relay coil and that looks like it may have failed in the on state. I’ve ordered up a few transistors (15 pence each, ouch!) and have a few diodes here just in case too. It’s low priority at the moment but would like it back working as it gives me the option to swap back. I will report back!

For anybody with the dreaded ‘stuck on’ rear fog issue, a bit of an update re the faulty PCB.

My board is looking like it has suffered a couple of failures. The first snag was the 2n3904 transistor that drives the fog relay coil had failed on. The fog relay and it’s snubber diode are fine so whipped the tranny out and stuck in a new. Unfortunately that only made a partial improvement. The ‘stuck on’ fog supply was now at least off, however actuating the fog light switch does nothing. That ‘clever’ latching logic appears to be shot as I cannot detect any control voltage on the base of the transistor despite the board still having its 5v supply working . The control tracking winds its way back to the microcontroller so maybe there's a partial micro failure too, unless I’ve missed something obvious? If it’s the micro then this add a new twist and an obstacle for home repair frown

If... I can maintain the enthusiasm I’ll put a Pickit 3 on my Christmas list and attempt to salvage the hex file and flash a new chip, that might be fun. Assuming of course that it hasn’t been locked…. ooo

The offenders
[Linked Image]

Testing the fog light
[Linked Image]

PCB update….. oops

I must admit, this is a bit embarrassing. My PCB is functioning flawlessly now. In fact, it has been working ever since I replaced the faulty fog relay driver transistor. The issue was that I hadn't properly connected it up when testing out of the car on the bench. rofl

Things took a turn when curiosity got the better of me and I decided to sketch out some more of the circuit. It turns out that the micro doesn't receive its cue from the sidelights supply on the PCB to enable the momentary fog switch’s relay latching routine, as I had initially thought. Instead, its uses a single 'common headlight supply' directly from the column switch with a resistor in series directly into the micro. A feature I confirmed by probing my spare Disco 2 column switch, as it wasn't something I could deduce from the circuit diagrams. Thankfully a simple fix on my test setup. As soon as moved the supply to pin 5 instead of pin 4 on the 15 pin header it burst into life with the relay clicking and latching. So now my PCB is fixed, should I ever decide to sell my car, I can easily revert it back to its original state within a couple of hours if necessary.

I hope this will be helpful to anyone in the future with rear fog issues. It seems that this fault is not uncommon, as I have seen similar reports several times on the forum. The 2N3904 transistor appears to be yet another weak point, but looking on the bright side, there is a positive. Yes the introduction of these PCB’s into our cars is a bit of a nuisance. As discovered, a shot 15 pence tranny can be a real headache come MOT time. However, these older 70’s tech double sided PCB’s with discrete components are still relatively simple and as proven, can even be fixed by somebody with a schoolboy knowledge of electronics. It’s the next generation of multilayer boards with surface mounts that I fear will be the real spoilers, they will be an order of magnitude more challenging…. ooo

Working again. The off state and the on state with relay latched on.
[Linked Image]


Roger
2011 Plus 4
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