As Roger said, there are many ways of overcoming the pcb issue. Looking at the hazard lights circuit, I was recently motivated by a “new products” advert from carbuilder solutions, where they offer a range of double pole push button stainless steel switches, with different motifs. (Part No. SSPB) This has both normally open and normally closed contacts together with RGB LEDs which can be configured to give a selection of different colours to light up the button. They are 24.5mm diameter and fit through a 22mm hole, so I would think they would fit pretty well into the standard Morgan dash plate. That would save making up switch plates as Rog did. Note: the 160mm switch tails are colour coded and come readily installed with resistors for the LEDs. I have shown the white tail as a black dotted line for clarity. Being double pole, it also enables the reduction of one relay. These switches can also be used for the fog, demist, spot light etc functions too as they are rated at 20 amps.
I have knocked up a drawing (not as nice as Rog, as I am using an old powerpoint software) Acknowledgements to Rog, without whom none of this would have come about and the usual…all at your own risk of course. I have not done this yet but just happy to share.
Super helpful as always
Originally Posted by sewin
Well I'm starting to feel much happier now and strangely looking forward to resolving this weakness in respect of the PCB. I must say every time I'm out driving I'm just waiting for it to fail! and I don't want that spoiling our fun. I'll wait for Rog to post his parts list and I'll start collecting and designing my solution....... I'll probably have to ask for help and suggestions along the way! Thanks so much to all who contribute, it's so helpful when dealing with areas where knowledge is lacking. I always try and answer in areas I'm confident even if it seems simple and obvious as to those it helps it is invaluable.
I absolutely agree
Many thanks Doug & Roger, wishing you all a very Merry Christmas
I was recently motivated by a “new products” advert from carbuilder solutions, where they offer a range of double pole push button stainless steel switches, with different motifs. (Part No. SSPB) This has both normally open and normally closed contacts together with RGB LEDs which can be configured to give a selection of different colours to light up the button. They are 24.5mm diameter and fit through a 22mm hole, so I would think they would fit pretty well into the standard Morgan dash plate. That would save making up switch plates as Rog did. Note: the 160mm switch tails are colour coded and come readily installed with resistors for the LEDs. I have shown the white tail as a black dotted line for clarity. Being double pole, it also enables the reduction of one relay. These switches can also be used for the fog, demist, spot light etc functions too as they are rated at 20 amps.
Some options here and here, and definitely a more elegant solution Doug. Neat
No bezels to worry about either so I would of thought that they might work well if replacing the older style rectangular PCB on a pre-2007 car, they have less space around the switch.
I was recently motivated by a “new products” advert from carbuilder solutions, where they offer a range of double pole push button stainless steel switches, with different motifs. (Part No. SSPB) This has both normally open and normally closed contacts together with RGB LEDs which can be configured to give a selection of different colours to light up the button. They are 24.5mm diameter and fit through a 22mm hole, so I would think they would fit pretty well into the standard Morgan dash plate. That would save making up switch plates as Rog did. Note: the 160mm switch tails are colour coded and come readily installed with resistors for the LEDs. I have shown the white tail as a black dotted line for clarity. Being double pole, it also enables the reduction of one relay. These switches can also be used for the fog, demist, spot light etc functions too as they are rated at 20 amps.
Some options here and here, and definitely a more elegant solution Doug. Neat
No bezels to worry about either so I would of thought that they might work well if replacing the older style rectangular PCB on a pre-2007 car, they have less space around the switch.
The original EOA switch
The second alternative looked a bit better as they had simple spade terminals rather than pre fixed tails BUT…I have questioned carbuilder about ratings and must say, received excellent rapid replies. The new product stainless steel ones that I first suggested in my version (SSPB) are confirmed as rated at 20 amps. However, the second type mentioned in Rog’s posting above (natural billet aluminium switch PBHA2L) are only rated at 6 amps so without an extra relay, are unlikely to handle the current directly. Same would go with demist function as well, I would think, though not sure as to exactly how many watts that takes. For mine, I am now letting sleeping dogs lie but if or when the pcb fails, think it could all be sorted over a weekend. It’s not as if any pcb failure is going to leave me immobile as it’s just ancillary functions that you can live without… until MOT time.
Which SSPB switches do I need for the replacements of demist, rear fog, hazard and the blank etc ( latched or not) which I hope to use as a sw for interior footwell lights and am I correct in thinking that they come with fly leads that have the diodes installed, Also if I order these from Carbuilder what other parts do they have available that I should order at the same time, things like flasher relays and connector systems for a new loom. Sorry to be a pain!
Which SSPB switches do I need for the replacements of demist, rear fog, hazard and the blank etc ( latched or not) which I hope to use as a sw for interior footwell lights and am I correct in thinking that they come with fly leads that have the diodes installed, Also if I order these from Carbuilder what other parts do they have available that I should order at the same time, things like flasher relays and connector systems for a new loom. Sorry to be a pain!
Although you have addressed Rog on this, I can tell you that all the switches need to be latching type. They have fly leads attached to each terminal and the led leads include the pre-wired RESISTORS, (not diodes), necessary for the LEDs. Carbuilder also do 10amp silicon diodes (part no. UID) which you will see on the diagram for left and right, so you need two of those. I could not see any diode protected changeover relays on their site but they are easily obtainable on amazon or ebay, Durite being a reasonable make, with a rating of not less than 20amps. Rog may be along sometime with a more comprehensive list of bits, especially the edge connectors and resistors etc, for the warning light breadboard. As far as connectors are concerned, think you will need to stock up with a small selection, as it would be difficult to specify down to the last detail, I would think as it will probably be a case of work it out as you go along depending on wire lengths etc.
For mine, I am now letting sleeping dogs lie but if or when the pcb fails, think it could all be sorted over a weekend. It’s not as if any pcb failure is going to leave me immobile as it’s just ancillary functions that you can live without… until MOT time.
Good plan and ready to spring into action
The indicators conking out was always my concern. The ‘flash’ looks to be dependent on the micro, crazy…. That might be a bit of a nuisance when the electronics or micro does eventually die, or gets taken out by a spike from the blower motor At that point its either a new PCB or a complete re-wire.
For mine, I am now letting sleeping dogs lie but if or when the pcb fails, think it could all be sorted over a weekend. It’s not as if any pcb failure is going to leave me immobile as it’s just ancillary functions that you can live without… until MOT time.
Good plan and ready to spring into action
The indicators conking out was always my concern. The ‘flash’ looks to be dependent on the micro, crazy…. That might be a bit of a nuisance when the electronics or micro does eventually die, or gets taken out by a spike from the blower motor At that point its either a new PCB or a complete re-wire.
I was thinking….what's wrong with hand signals in a Morgan, easy peasy….and then I remembered the side screens!,🫲🫱🫳🤬
Which SSPB switches do I need for the replacements of demist, rear fog, hazard and the blank etc ( latched or not) which I hope to use as a sw for interior footwell lights and am I correct in thinking that they come with fly leads that have the diodes installed, Also if I order these from Carbuilder what other parts do they have available that I should order at the same time, things like flasher relays and connector systems for a new loom. Sorry to be a pain!
Although you have addressed Rog on this, I can tell you that all the switches need to be latching type. They have fly leads attached to each terminal and the led leads include the pre-wired RESISTORS, (not diodes), necessary for the LEDs. Carbuilder also do 10amp silicon diodes (part no. UID) which you will see on the diagram for left and right, so you need two of those. I could not see any diode protected changeover relays on their site but they are easily obtainable on amazon or ebay, Durite being a reasonable make, with a rating of not less than 20amps. Rog may be along sometime with a more comprehensive list of bits, especially the edge connectors and resistors etc, for the warning light breadboard. As far as connectors are concerned, think you will need to stock up with a small selection, as it would be difficult to specify down to the last detail, I would think as it will probably be a case of work it out as you go along depending on wire lengths etc.
Sorry Sewin, but I have no experience of the SSPB’s. But, as requested a list below of the items that I did purchase.
Anybody - please check that these are correct for you, should you commit….
Heater fan switch. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294842780517 Not really an auto component. It’s actually from a domestic room heater. However it appears to fit nicely. It eliminates a relay too. Time will tell how it holds up compared to the original 60's radiogram, band changer wafer switch (I did order spares). However it’s switching function is curious, at least to me. It appears to have a double wiper thingy, but works the blower ok. Take a look at my original diagram, I’ve attempted to draw it symbolically. It has no radial stop either.
I presume the latching switches will cancel if you switch off the electric's/engine ie. self cancelling if power is lost? I'll start sorting all the parts and getting ready to swap out the PCB. I so want the car to get me into old age and cause me as little trouble as possible and when my son finally get the keys I don't want his learning curve to ruin his ownership pleasure!
![[Linked Image]](https://www.tm-img.com/images/2023/12/19/IMG_0143.jpeg)
![[Linked Image]](http://tm-img.com/images/2023/12/19/20231219_193111.jpeg)
