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Sold
by simon8201 - 09/09/26 01:46 PM
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Wales
by Joske Vermeule, September 1
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Forums39
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Is it possible the outer pads were somehow hanging up on the pins and/or the holes were oversize? If they were stuck then the piston would be pushing the pad and it would be hinging on the pins, leading to contact at the lower edge but not at the top. I didn't check the size of the holes in the pads relative to the pins, but I'll do that when I'm at the shop today. I did notice that the pins were properly lubricated when I took everything apart.
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Is it possible that the outer half of the caliper isn't perpendicular to the inner half when bolted up together? I've had a similar problem with an out of true mounting face of a starter motor in the past. Good point, but I doubt it, as this wear pattern just recently started. I will check it out, though.
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Suggest removing pads and pushing both pistons fully in as you might when fitting new pads - ensure m/cylinder reservoir doesn't overflow though. Then slide in pads and ensure the backing plates of same have enough clearance to move in and out from face of disc as they obviously need to when working. A little Ceratec (anti squeal lube) on the very edge of pad backing plates may help. Thoughts are that outer pad is fouling the caliper slot it works in (maybe due to poor machining) although worth comparing inner and outer slots.
A further possibility assuming the problems doesn't lie with the new disc rotors themselves, is that the brake caliper supports were removed from stub axles and bolted back with some foreign body between mating surfaces, leaving calipers not true to disc rotors. I admit this is a long shot though.
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
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With the amount of force a caliper exerts when you put the boot in, any binding in the slot or pins should be very evident if it's enough to resist... unless there's a fairly large bit of superfluous crud between the caliper halves or behind the pad forcing them out of alignment then, if it were me, I'd take it out and do some spirited braking somewhere safe .... likely the 'high' bit of the outer pad nearest the hub will wear whatever small bit is needed to true the pad to the disc and give full sweep of the disc area.*
K
* what I'd do and what's 'proper' have been known to diverge! 🙂
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Joined: Jul 2022
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Suggest removing pads and pushing both pistons fully in as you might when fitting new pads - ensure m/cylinder reservoir doesn't overflow though. Then slide in pads and ensure the backing plates of same have enough clearance to move in and out from face of disc as they obviously need to when working. A little Ceratec (anti squeal lube) on the very edge of pad backing plates may help. Thoughts are that outer pad is fouling the caliper slot it works in (maybe due to poor machining) although worth comparing inner and outer slots.
A further possibility assuming the problems doesn't lie with the new disc rotors themselves, is that the brake caliper supports were removed from stub axles and bolted back with some foreign body between mating surfaces, leaving calipers not true to disc rotors. I admit this is a long shot though. As I said, this only became apparent at the end of last year. The first photo above is the current condition. Rebuilt calipers and new rotors. I discovered the difference in the inner/outer gap when I went to install the new pads. I will check the caliper mounts. Thanks!
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With the amount of force a caliper exerts when you put the boot in, any binding in the slot or pins should be very evident if it's enough to resist... unless there's a fairly large bit of superfluous crud between the caliper halves or behind the pad forcing them out of alignment then, if it were me, I'd take it out and do some spirited braking somewhere safe .... likely the 'high' bit of the outer pad nearest the hub will wear whatever small bit is needed to true the pad to the disc and give full sweep of the disc area.*
K
* what I'd do and what's 'proper' have been known to diverge! 🙂 The calipers have been rebuilt and the rotors and pads are new. The photo of the rotor is before I did any of this recent work. I haven't driven it with the new brakes yet, because the car is currently without an engine, transmission, or rear axle as everything is getting rebuilt and we're installing a Quaife ATB diff. It will definitely get some "spirited braking", and driving, when all is back together in a couple of months.
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The calipers have been rebuilt and the rotors and pads are new. The photo of the rotor is before I did any of this recent work. I haven't driven it with the new brakes yet, because the car is currently without an engine, transmission, or rear axle as everything is getting rebuilt and we're installing a Quaife ATB diff. It will definitely get some "spirited braking", and driving, when all is back together in a couple of months. If I've understood correctly the partial contact between pads and disc you previously had (which we've been discussing) is now irrelevant as you now have rebuilt calipers plus new pads and discs. Would I now be correct in saying therefore the only current issue you have is the aligning of caliper to new discs which you are solving with shims between caliper and it's mount plate?
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
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The calipers have been rebuilt and the rotors and pads are new. The photo of the rotor is before I did any of this recent work. I haven't driven it with the new brakes yet, because the car is currently without an engine, transmission, or rear axle as everything is getting rebuilt and we're installing a Quaife ATB diff. It will definitely get some "spirited braking", and driving, when all is back together in a couple of months. If I've understood correctly the partial contact between pads and disc you previously had (which we've been discussing) is now irrelevant as you now have rebuilt calipers plus new pads and discs. Would I now be correct in saying therefore the only current issue you have is the aligning of caliper to new discs which you are solving with shims between caliper and it's mount plate? Yes, Richard, that is correct. Hopefully, this will sort the issue out. I won't know for sure, though, until the car is back on the road.
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I also got the drums cleaned up and they look good. No shoulder indicating that they have ever been turned, so I'm guessing the 9" I.D. is standard. ![[Linked Image]](https://www.tm-img.com/images/2024/02/06/IMG_6440.md.jpeg)
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