Wales
by Joske Vermeule, September 1
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Jun 14th, 2026
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Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 37
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 37 |
Hi all, I'm just about to start the SSL 5 link rear kit on our 2004 Plus 8. I've a 1/2 decent workshop with an inspection pit. Got a transmission jack.
The instructions seem very concise, well laid out and logical.
Have ordered some Lanoshield to coat everything with as I go along/once complete.
Any advice from anyone that's done it themselves on a similar age car?
Thanks
John
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 614 Likes: 22
Talk Morgan Regular
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Talk Morgan Regular
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 614 Likes: 22 |
Obviously measure everything twice before removing anything.
You need to position the car on the pit so that it's easy to go from under the car to on top of it in order to release the springs. It's handy to have a couple of pairs of axle stands, one for the car, one for the axle, your tx jack may do for one pair?
I think I took the seats out, it's much easier to get at the front spring fasteners.
That's all for now but I'm sure I'll remember some other info.
Cheers
John.
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Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 37
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 37 |
That's great thanks, yes I was going to have a look and see where the cover plates are for the front of the springs and then see if I take the seats out or leave them be.
If you do remember anything else then please do put it up here
Cheers
John
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Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,019 Likes: 120
Has a lot to Say!
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Has a lot to Say!
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 1,019 Likes: 120 |
Coat the whole thing when installed with ACF50 first , spray it on with a paint spay type of gun and it goes a long way. on the large areas with easy access just wipe everything with a small soaked rag and let it dry then use your chosen wax treatment after a couple of days. It's expensive stuff , ACF50 but applied correctly is real value for money! Originally it was designed to prevent corrosion in aircraft and will really creep into seams and difficult places and it won't wash or wear away, once you've done it, its there for good!
Being of a certain age I had found that I liked Dinitrol the best and was a little skeptical about lanolin/lanoguard as it was described as an annual treatment' however it really does flat to a very nice thin layer and seems to hold and wear well too. I also found over the years that all these treatments really needed an annual refresh to keep their flexibility and self repair ability at peak levels so I would now use lanoguard as a choice on new surfaces. it also allows you visual inspection through thin clear layer when dry! And its eco friendly!
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Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 37
Just Getting Started
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OP
Just Getting Started
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 37 |
Coat the whole thing when installed with ACF50 first , spray it on with a paint spay type of gun and it goes a long way. on the large areas with easy access just wipe everything with a small soaked rag and let it dry then use your chosen wax treatment after a couple of days. It's expensive stuff , ACF50 but applied correctly is real value for money! Originally it was designed to prevent corrosion in aircraft and will really creep into seams and difficult places and it won't wash or wear away, once you've done it, its there for good!
Being of a certain age I had found that I liked Dinitrol the best and was a little skeptical about lanolin/lanoguard as it was described as an annual treatment' however it really does flat to a very nice thin layer and seems to hold and wear well too. I also found over the years that all these treatments really needed an annual refresh to keep their flexibility and self repair ability at peak levels so I would now use lanoguard as a choice on new surfaces. it also allows you visual inspection through thin clear layer when dry! And its eco friendly! That's all good advice, thank you!
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