Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) What Did You Do To Your Morgan Today?

The stainless steel lines arrived so I got the plumbing for the new annular release bearing installed.

Yep needs a fuse all day long! Don't forget the fuel tank is also sitting there The ctek charger is also an anti spark fitment so is a good choice but if you are messing around with the battery terminal ends it will certainly spark!
Richard is spot on with the heavy duty starter live too! It is a bit on the vulnerable side and an inline fuse is on my list, MCB type I think!

Nice neat looking job there Sailor! Like the bleed nipple on that version of concentric slave as well.

Good luck with that sewin. Remember there will be four additional connection points when adding a fuse to a starter motor main feed. The two fuse holder terminals plus the two points of contact with fuse itself will each have a minute ohmic resistance but they add up and the high starter current will greatly magnify the ensuing volt drop mitigating voltage at starter. You can then add reliability of connections which long term could cause further higher resistance given a likely exposed location. Then you have to decide what fuse current and type to use in order to give some protection whilst providing starting reliability. There are many variables here particularly allowances for cold weather. Using a mechanical circuit breaker will lower reliability even further given the probability of false trips.

The industry standard of well engineered cable runs and heavy current cable insulation gives an incredibly low likelihood of failure or short. This and above probably explains why virtually every vehicle on the road has a direct heavy current cable from battery to starter motor (battery isolators aside) just as our Morgan's. It's certainly not about saving money.

How about fitting another solenoid at the battery with the actuating and thick brown wires slaved to the original ... it would mean the long unprotected run would only be live during starting and fusing the ancilliary feed at the battery end would be much less problematic ... probably a lot of faff when, as RichardV6 says, it's a rare thing to have a problem with .... probably easier to have a motorsport style cutout in the earth side as a failsafe if peace of mind were needed.

K

That reminds me K of the starter wiring on my old Land Rover when first acquired. A pre-engage piggy back solenoid starter had been retro fitted. The original starter wiring with push button solenoid remained though with the piggy back solenoid trigger looped locally to main starter feed. It worked of course but with the inefficiency of two solenoids in series

It was later corrected with fresh direct cabling and OE push button just used to operate trigger.

A few hours spent on a full spanner check, plus reset the SSL front end to get the rebound springs just right, the factory 5 Link rear has a some very chunky bolts but always worth a check of tightness on those too, followed by a dob of waxoil on any that have lost the underseal whilst spannered

......




Changed the coil packs and plug leads, I had what sounded like a slight misfire but no discernible loss of power, and when i looked into it found the tip corroded and when i tried to clean it it was broken.

David Byrne

Number plates flipped and headlamp bulbs changed, just in case we get the pedantic 'tester' next week

Whilst cleaning the underside of car (yes I know ) my cloth caught something rattling up the side of engine. Turned out to be a ¼" bolt securing inner wing to cross frame assembly that had shed it's nut. Replaced with stainless fixings including nylock nut. One less rattle maybe