Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Front shock absorbers

Whilst replacing tyres all round, and as usual for me, the evening before a competition event, I noticed my nearside front shock absorber (Spax adjustable supplied with the SSL upgrade the previous owner had installed) had lost its top nut and rubber seat. Not having suitable bits about to make good, I saw no option than to remove both shocks and avoid the inevitable handling imbalance. I have to say, I haven't really noticed a difference, with driving to Gurston- 130 miles round trip, and current trip into London, (and managed P3/8 at Gurston, which is a new track to me) I will replace them, but wondered if there were any other "no shocks" experience out there?

The late legendary “Bill Button” tried this out on his Plus 8 and found no great difference at all

So I think did RichardV6

Yes. Treesurveyor. That is a sign of acceptable shocks.


And yes, +8Ric,h It was I who convinced dear Button to remove his shocks completely. It was/is the best to determine whether his shocks had been poorly chosen. They were
That being said, it took some convincing on my part. (fond memory)

On a stock trad, the travel is negligible, about 3cm, give or take. It is MUCH easier to prejudice that small movement than better it. Peter Morgan once wrote that he only agreed to front
shocks because buyers felt odd without them.,,sorta like some wives on going out for a fancy meal without their earrings.

With such a small front travel, it is easier to ruin it with the wrong shock choice and bad maintenance than improve it. I merely cut my rebounds to the proper length, as they were when
first used, and choose my main spring rates carefully. With that type of travel, only expect my front end to keep my steering wheel from giving me any unwanted feedback. Comfort is at
the rear.

However, I have examined the new front end used by the Bonomi in their recent African rallying, though it is far beyond the pocket books of Morgan owners. The very good Cain Poulton is
working on a similar vein that is VERY interesting.

The experiences noted above, along with Button's merely prove that there is NOTHING wrong with the trad front end save what we do (or don't do) to it. That being said, any attempt at change
has the effect of finally doing maintenance. That is why almost all those attempt something new are always pleased at the result, though they mistakenly attributing it to the 1500 quid they
spend on it sundry baubles. Sadly, those who are not satisfied do not tell anyone except those who help them put their cars back on the road.

Again, my compliments TreeSurveyor

gmg

Dave W had a very similar experience a year ago. Again, very little difference with no shocks.

I had just fitted brand new kingpins when I I drove briefly without front shocks fitted so suspension was tight anyway. After over 1000 miles it's loosening up nicely and I suspect I would notice the difference now as I can feel smoother suspension articulation even before a fresh greasing.

Note the top shock nut for SSL Spax shocks should be fully tightened against the steel inserts within rubbers whilst holding the spindle from turning with a small adjustable on the flats. It's only the bottom mount nylock nut that needs to be tightened only enough to fully grip the conical rubber inserts without pushing rubber over the large washers.

Richard, I think we have disagreed in the past over the tightening of the top shock nut. I have now found my old copy of SSL installation instructions and here is what they say:

“Fit the new dampers noting that the top rubber washers should only be nipped up and not crushed! The SPAX damper should be set at full soft for light cars and mid way for V6 and V8 cars, then adjust to suit your requirements. Note some other damper makes may not be suitable as the bump stop on the damper rod is critical.”

I have always thought that over tightening of the top nut could put extra strain on the plate, several of which have been reported on this forum as broken.

Yes the SSL instructions I believe are wrong in that respect Doug possibly referring to earlier shocks supplied with the kit and not the Spax krypton gas assisted now used. They should now refer only to bottom eye rubbers which can easily be over tightened.

FWIW in no way are the top rubbers over compressed with the nut done up tight against the metal spacers which are there for that purpose. Picture confirms this. Then we have the case of this threads OP who lost the nut and rubbers



The SSL RS kit design as explained by Peter Ballard does away with the MMC rubber tube bump stops to gain a little more much needed front suspension articulation. To offset this rate riser extra springs of a conical shape are fitted over top of kingpins. This still requires the front shock absorber to provide the ultimate bump stop under extreme conditions though. Peter made it very clear how important it was that the shocks had a suitable stop. I view this as a slight weakness in the design having had the top mounts break although only after a considerable mileage, and have since been careful to only tighten bottom rubber bushes to the minimum to lightly compress. A recent full rebuild with new kingpins has allowed me to back off the damper settings a couple of clicks as well - time will tell.

Yep I think Richard is correct about the SSl instructions and it probably applies to the Original Bilstein non adjustable shocks. In some of my previous posts I have written about the shock, no shock situation and if proof were needed remove them and see. I can see why SSL would fit shocks to their upgrade as they use progressive main springs and that initial soft section could benefit from having some of the bounce supressed from its action. If you test a shock when off the car fitted to a trad Morgan you will see it offers little resistance, in fact if you gave it to any motor fitter he'd tell you it's shot as it moves in and out with the same resistance as your average cafetiere!

Thanks Richard & Sewin,
I will have a further close look at mine when I do my annual service in October. I seem to recall that the bottom spindle had a shoulder which would prevent any over tightening anyway.
Meanwhile, I’ ll drop a note to Peter B for his observations, as it’s important to get clarity for everyone, especially as the instructions from which my quote was taken, specifically mentions SPAX dampers.