Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) 185/70 for a 2014 4/4

That's a lot of pressure loss on a daily basis. There's probably nothing wrong with the tyre. Depending on who did the tyre change for you, they may have inadvertently damaged the "band" that goes around the centre of the wheel, in which case air will leak. That happened to me a couple of years ago, after having 5 new tyres fitted while the car was in for servicing, one of them went flat overnight. So I took the complete wheel/tyre to a local tyre specialist (where I should have gone in the first place) and they sorted it while I waited. (I have added a second picture to show the damage in the midddle of the band).

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Tom, I wanted to write you the same that Peter (Lordofthewings) says. It is unlikely that so much air is lost under modern construction and production conditions, unless it is due to the valve or if this rim seal tape is damaged. We have seen this often here in the forum, it can obviously happen quickly if someone is careless during assembly.

Regarding your second point, it is difficult to understand from afar. At what frequency do the beats occur, at what speed?
I have this wobbling of the tyres between 70 and 90 km/h on a straight line. According to the garage, it is clearly the tyre, no matter how well it was balanced. In your case, I can't say as a layman from afar, but I would not rule out causes that have nothing to do with the tyre. Are the wheel bearings adjusted correctly without too much play, so that they don't wobble in the curve? Your kingpins are not yet worn out? Are the bushes still ok for steering and tie rod etc.? I ask this because your symptom only appears in a left hand bend where the wheel is forced lateral.
The easiest way to rule out all this is to swap the front left tyre for the front right and see if the symptom is still there or if it disappears when you change the wheels.

Tom,
If the tyres have done some miles I would swap the front left with the rear left, test drive then swap the right hand side front and back and test drive again, then assess what happens. I have had some really strange wheel effects if changing sides and thus rotational direction. No, I can't explain how a tyre with one direction of use that is then reversed can do this except perhaps with directional tyres but they do! However do check that your tyres do or don't have a directional arrow or an outside marking!

Hi Nagrom, sorry for delay. Sometimes I have the feeling that it is not so easy to find the right online dealer that I can fully trust to start with. Then there's the tire itself. Look at this example, the same tire is offered twice on the same platform by the same dealer. With different prices and different EU labels. This must be completely confusing for many customers.



and here again but with the „nicer“ label for the wet.




My guess is that nobody in the store takes care of the software management. I suspect that one is the CT22 as it is offered today, and the other is a residual stock with the lower rating of the EU label for wet conditions. So the tire appears twice and nobody is automatically informed in the company. Now I come to a second point that will cause confusion, for example the CT22. Many here know that the Conti CT22, when mounted on a new 4/4, is a tire that is terrible and life-threatening in the wet. Accordingly, it is not surprising that the CT22 has received a very miserable "F" for its wet grip. It has been doing that for many, many years.

And suddenly, just a few years ago, the CT22 went from an "F" for wet grip to a "B" for wet grip... at every online retailer in Europe. I did some research and I didn't find anywhere that the Conti CT22 had been improved or changed in any way. If this were the case, the manufacturer would have made a lot of advertising for its "new great" CT22, let's say CT22 2.0.
But nothing happened. Without wanting to offend anyone, I assume that nothing has changed about the tire. BTW, it would be interesting to ask the EU itself how these tire labels come about, who tests for the EU and such questions. Then an explanation would have to come as to why the legitimate "F" for wetness on the CT22 can become a "B" B quite quietly, secretly and almost in a covert night and fog operation?

With online dealers, people are supposed to believe that there is competition for the best offer. This is often just nonsense and we are dealing with a market that has been artificially inflated, see the screenshot, all these dealer brands come from the same kitchen and are trying to create a variety of offers.




By the way, I have had very good experiences with this dealer from your country, link nelow, over several years for various cars in terms of communication, for example when I had to change my mind about an order. Within a few minutes phone calls are answered. This is not my advertising and I have no business relationship with them, just my subjective experience. In addition, the tyres were always with a fresh DOT number. It is just an example, there are other good dealers too.

https://www.reifen-pneus-online.de/

Because of the Hankook Kinergy Eco 2 K435, my dealer had called it. I don't know it. But I agree with you that an eco tire cannot have the best grip. If you could believe the EU label, then a tyre would be good for the Morgan if it had a bad value for fuel consumption and a fairly good value for wet grip. Because that's pretty important to me with the light 4/4. For example, this offer, if the rest of the workmanship is good, even if it's from China.

https://www.reifen-pneus-online.de/pkw-reifen/nankang/econext-na1/165-80-r15-87-t-ww-d-b-70-b.html

Although I just see that this same tire also comes with different labels again, OMG.

https://www.reifen-pneus-online.de/pkw-reifen/nankang/econext-na1/165-80-r15-87-t-c-b-70-b.html

I have Nankang tires on my Elise and I am very happy with the performance, NS2R. Before that I had Yokohama AD08R, which were better than the Nankang. Then the EU banned the AD08R because it was too good and due to the very good grip the car used a drop more fuel. The successor, the AD08RS, is now no better than the Chinese Nankang, according to many forum reports from people who drive track days. This is a small digression to show that brands and countries of production can change, develop and improve or make it worse.

The crazy thing about the 165/80/15 dimension is that there are a few well-known manufacturers (with Continental being extremely well-known and offering the worst tyres). Then there are countless brands that at least I have never heard of... more so every year... and then there are these completely overpriced classic tires from Michelin, Dunlop, Vredestein and others, only some of which have good test results (Dunlop, but only a C for wet). Most of them have no test results at all and no EU label.

https://www.reifen-pneus-online.de/pkw-reifen/dunlop/sport-classic/165-0-r15-87-h-c-c-69-b.html

I almost think, as a summary, that I won't buy a T-Trac 2 anymore, I'm disappointed with the overall quality of the tyre from India. But I wouldn't know what I would drive, maybe I would try the Nankang because the other Nankang on the Elise is really good. Now I have what I have with my new T-Trac 2 and I am not any more in the market for three or so years. And then I will have a new look at the offerings.

I've found that sometimes the date mark is quite a bit older on a same tyre but cheaper price. Naturally the buyer goes for the cheaper option then you find they were made two years earlier. Not so great when you change on time rather than wear and you are trying to keep a track of the age of your tyres! Yes I know they will tell you that tyres are considered new at fitment even when three years old but the rubber ages doesn't it!

Hello this primarily a question for Montegue,ref his continental tyres,but would value others comments.I have a 2014 plus 4 with SSl suspension all round,I am thinking of fitting195x65 continental eco contact 6 to replace the yokahoma c drive tyres,so the question is because of the increase in the tyre wall, do you think I will have any problems regarding clearance of the springs or body,and are these the right tyres to go for ,Montegue seems to be very happy with his choice

I can't see any damage there Peter although your image does show the normal seal around tyre valve. If you have adjusted any of the spoke nuts though, however slightly, it will cause a leak - I know

Below is damage to one of mine (I caused leaks on both back wheels) shown after I had carefully dug out the broken sealant. Check thread here if interested.



The tell tales were clear to see - twisted sealant at the surface above the spoke nut. A check on sealant band above all spoke nuts should show any damage. A single failure can be fixed without renewing the whole band with correct sealant, Dowsil 1080 available from MWS. Guessing this is what your tyre dealer did although most don't have the sealant - it also needs 48 hours to go off! If needed a full renewal of seal can be done at home with several tubes of sealant and much preparation (see videos). MWS will perform the service but at considerable cost!