Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Piping

Glad this issue has been raised again.
My 2011 4/4 has black piping, which feels like rubber. I have used ACF50 since new, without problems. But recently on the drivers side in the door area a 5 inch section has become loose. The piping still feels ok, not soft or sticky. If we were not discussing the lube, I would say that there had been some movement of the wing away from the body, so not “gripping” the piping, in that area. The piping pushes back quite easily, but gradually works it way out in a couple of weeks. Not all the way out more of a slight bulge.
I thought at some point I’ll have to have the exhaust off & see if the wing mounts are still tight.
Any suggestions welcome.

This is how mine went on the running boards before I fixed it.

Craig, yes that is like mine but so far in only 1 section. How did you fix it?
Thanks

From memory I loosened a few bolts under the running boards and pulled the piping & re tightened. It helped a little, but I found by cutting out the lubricating altogether the rubber hardened & it self cured.

The service guy at Williams did say that they don’t lubricate the piping for this reason. Maybe I over done it !

The factory appear to tack the piping in place with staples (I don't think stainless) so perhaps some have gradually corroded or the frame movement has elongated the tiny holes allowing the piping to move about.

A full and final cure may mean 'wing off' or try masking the paintwork, ease the piping out a bit, de-grease and apply clear Uhu to the flange and push back in, then use something like a strip of blu tack to hold it in place for at least a day

My car is 11 years old with maroon piping, I have never treated it and it's fine.

Pardon my ignorance here but why would you go anywhere near the piping on cars with aluminium body panels? I have a 2002 +8 and use ACF50 to great effect on the shiny bits but have never felt the need to apply it to paintwork or piping. Especially so if you have paint protection film.

I think that the 3 in 1 oil recommendation annually is for two reasons. It will inhibit rust in the staples, and it will create an element of lubrication so that the chassis twist will allow easier movement between the wings and the body tub. Like anything else, we have a choice and there will be consequences either way, but it will never be exact because both mileage covered, and the amount of wet weather encountered will affect the outcome.

If the movement chafes the paint, the aluminium will start to corrode.

Ok. Tips for removing the wings, please?

A job best avoided if possible, depending on how your wings were fixed on. These days they use threaded inserts in the wood and it's all a lot easier but I don't know if they were doing that in 2012.

When I removed my wings I had to grind off the heads off all the bolts and then re-drill holes in the arches and under the rocker panels so I could put inserts in. OK for me as I was fittinng new wings so they had to be drilled anyway, but I wouldn't think you'd want to do that if you were refitting the existing wings.