Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing Morgan 4+ 1998 left rear wheel

To illustrate Richard's comment above here is a picture of the screws you refer to.



The brake drum is just held on by four short ¼" UNF setscrews as can be seen unpainted. I repeat leave the large slotted screws (which hold drive flange to axle) alone, the brake drum fits over their heads.

Something is rubbing. MUE. If you drive your car at night, you will even (most likely) see the guilty drum glow orange in the dark.

Until you take the drum off (when cold please!!)...everything is a guess. Any idea the last time you changed your rear shoes or checked them? I check mine annually.

Could even be some thing wedged in there, keeping the shoes too far spread. As you have used you car like this, (hopefully not too much) you might have worn the one shoe a lot.
have seen shoes worn down to the metal. Drums can warp. Hot ones warp faster.

I have 100,000 kms on my rear brake cylinders. No issues, though the earlier (pre-June 1993) Girling type can fail at any time.

Rear brake cylinders, either kind, do NOT have to be replaced as a set. Nothing gained in doing so..just carry an extra. If you want to have a forever one, just send the replaced one
off to PastParts or Classic Car Brakes and have them refurbish and sleeve them in stainless steel. Most car parts can be made to last forever, but owners must do this. After all,
manufacturers certainly don't want to make "forever" parts.

Good luck!

gmg


P.S. BTW, I was told by the former service manager (2003) and then developer at the Works when we sorting my current (2003) that the Production Department was installing.
adjusting the rear brakes (CAPAROs June 1993 on) in the wrong way. This prejudiced the hand brake function and the ability of the self-adjusting brakes to self-adjust. It is
one of the reasons UK racer prefer the Girling rears when it comes to this feature as they are manually adjusted. Me too..but I loyally stick with my CAPAROs..and who can find the
correct Girling backplates any more? (for a road car, we are merely swapping problems)

I wrote an article on how to cure the issue. https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/APBRAKES.html#SAFETY

Different model, but I was having a lot of heat (and then smoke) coming from a rear drum. Turned out to be a leaky axle seal and the diff oil was heating up in the drum.

On a previous vehicle I had a brake lining detatch from the shoe and jam up inside the drum .... hard to notice at hand-turning speed but I guess the drum whizzing by at road speed pulled it up tighter.

K

Also had a brake lining detach on a 93 +4

jk

I had the same problem when I had my brakes relined. I adjusted them such that I could rotate the wheel easily with no apparent rubbing. Even then the right drum got hot so backed off the adjustment a couple of notches. Brakes still fine but drum no longer gets hot. I would suggest you try backing of the adjusters a bit and see if that sorts it.