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Joined: Nov 2015
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Just barreling along
Needs to Get Out More!
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Just barreling along
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If you take off the top-up cap off the master cylinder, put some thin polythene bag material over the top & then screw the cap back on it will override the vent in the cap, then you can release fittings downstream in the pipework and the subsequent slight vacuum will reduce the lost fluid to almost zero, often removing the need to bleed (works on hydraulic clutches too)


Jon M
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Many thanks for all your responses. Much appreciated.
Investigation work starts tomorrow.
Gary

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Do the quick test of bypassing the hydraulic switch first. That tells you if it is the switch at fault. The tip of sealing the master cylinder reservoir is a good one too. I think DaveW did some work on changing to a brake pedal switch instead of the hydraulic one too.


Plus Four MY23 Furka Rouge
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Yes I added a relay first but then rewired it through a pedal switch. It's easy enough to do!


DaveW
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'16 Yellow (Not the only) Narrow AR GDI Plus 4
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With brake lights perhaps being considered as a safety circuit, it seem the simpler the circuit design, the fewer components and connections involved, perhaps it might be less likely to fail, and if it fails, the simpler may be find the cause of failure, for those with a minimum of electrical understanding...?

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If you stick led bulbs in the brake lights it is a lot less of a current drain and the hydraulic brake switch should last a long time (so long as it doesn't leak).

DB

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All sorted.
I bypassed the hydraulic switch as a number of you mentioned and hey presto, the lights worked.
The terminals on the switch were filthy and having given them a gentle clean with some emery paper, I reconnected everything and the lights now work fine.
A simple solution in the end, but very grateful for all the tips.
Everyday is a school day!! 😂😂

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