TBM Thanks for the information. Next time i'm with the MOG i give it a go. It effects both sides. Sometime they click on and off and sometimes just stay on. LED lights are fitted and a couple of years ago i did replace the flasher relay. The Hazards did work last time i checked.
For what it's woth, all my dash switch module PCB issues suspiciously coincided (precisely) with my attempts to use Morgan's fog/driving light wiring tucked away within the factory loom.
I can't categorically prove activating the factory auxiliary lihghting circuit caused my PCB issues, but the coincidence was uncanny, the circuit also never functioned reliably giving a sucession of blowing and melting fuses accompanied the myriadad PCB issues.
My advice to anyone looking to fit fogs/spots is.... don't use the factory loom, it's just not worth the risk
Before replacing my fried PCB with a later fuse protected version (yes Morgan completely failed to correctly fuse protect my original 2011/12 PCB), I installed a stand alone auxiliary lighting loom instead, this was actually the original way I'd planned to wire my fogs, but that's another story
My superior stand alone fog light wiring of course uses a relay and is also properly fuse protected as you'd expect, TBH I don't really need a relay as I'm running LED bulbs in my Marchal fogs but the job is now done right, and should I wish, I can always fit the original incandescent bulbs (highly unlikely). A decent LED bulb in the rear fog light thats switched through the PCB completes the job, my hope is I'll now enjoy reliablity from my replacement late model 2018 4/4 fused protected PCB.
If anyone is interested, Morgan used a patch cable on the 12 pin connector to add fuse protection to later PCBs, actually it looks like it was designed to be retro fitted to earlier cars as part of a recall. For anyone still running no fuse protection to their fully functioning earlier PCB, this patch cable would be a very sensible mod, indeed it would be straightforward enough to make your own.
Adding fuses to protect the delicate tracks on the PCB, fitting an LED bulb in the rear fog light to take load off that circuit, and avoiding the temptation to use the factory auxiliary lighti wiring would all be sensible precautions if my experience is anything to go by
Typically there aren't any relays for dip/main headlamp control. The only Morgan I'm aware of that does use one is the 5 speed V twin M3W. I know some have added them to save the dip/main light switch contacts but it's designed to cope so unnecessary extra complexity in my view.
Using a relay for spotlamps is advisable though, however if the car used LED's all round you could easily get away without.
True for more recent models but the older stuff had sealed-beam headlamps at something like 35W. Bunging in a pair of 55/60W halogens leads to quite an increase in current through the dipswitch which will burn them out if relays are not fitted. I learned this the hard way.
Sealed beam units were first introduced in the UK in 1959 with 7 inch ones rated at 60/55 watts, with halogen bulbs of same wattage replacing them. Prior to that bayonet twin filament 50/40 watt bulbs were generally used. I believe pre war some may have been as low as 35 watt though. Like it or not the headlamp dip switch was designed to carry the current without relay assistance, but I admit the adoption of stalk dip switches introduced a lower quality.
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
Did you take any pic's Dave when you installed the protected 12 pin connector with the patch cable location etc.
I didn't take photos, however, I did record this video....
And here's a screenshot taken from it.
There are two fuses in the patch cable, my guess is one is the heated screen while the other is the rear fog light. However, it could be tthe heated screen and the heater fan, TBH all three are fairly high amp circuits.
I'm sure someone will confirm the circuits after studying the video? I'm calling it a patch cable because one end plugs into the factory loom, and the other end plugs into the PCB, so the fuses now sit between the factory loom and PCB thus protecting the board.
The patch cable is only 5" long, and looks to me like it was designed to make retro fitting fuses super simple for a Morgan dealer, probably when they were replacing a disgruntled customer' PCB. When I saw it on my replacement PCB (that came from a 2018 4/4), I thought "I'm definitely including that", this was as simple as plugging my factory loom into the patch cable that was already plugged into the PCB at the other end.
Both the fuses are 5a, and like I say... there were only two of them!
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