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Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 6,061 Likes: 160
Talk Morgan Sage
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OP
Talk Morgan Sage
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 6,061 Likes: 160 |
Oh and I've just (partially) remembered that those B's with a seat belt warning light have a diode in the circuit, and if that fails, something weird happens, but I can't remember what. I did have that function, but lost it when I replaced the seatbelts. I'll try and find the module and disconnect/remove it.
1972 4/4 4 seater, 1981 MGB GT 1984 Harley Davidson Electra Glide, 1990 Kawasaki ZX10
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Joined: Jul 2019
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Part of the Furniture
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Part of the Furniture
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 4,612 Likes: 194 |
Duh, when I typed John, I should have typed Richard of V6 fame... Sorry Richard. Like the possible failing diode thinking Dave.. 
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 7,940 Likes: 218
Talk Morgan Guru
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Talk Morgan Guru
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 7,940 Likes: 218 |
The warning light illuminating indicates a potential difference between ignition switch fed battery volts to field rotor and diode trio output to same. These diodes, separate from the main output pairs, are responsible for providing a half phase rectified DC feed to the field circuit by taking a bleed from the alternator stators raw three phase output, allowing the alternator to be self energising. One diode may have gone open circuit reducing field current but leaving enough for alternator to provide sufficient charge current hence voltage to battery under light loads. Simplified diagram below (not showing regulator which sits in series with field rotor) does show the diode trio to right of image though. ![[Linked Image]](https://www.picoauto.com/images/uploads/case-studies/_med/atl_wiring.png)
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
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Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 6,061 Likes: 160
Talk Morgan Sage
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OP
Talk Morgan Sage
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 6,061 Likes: 160 |
The warning light illuminating indicates a potential difference between ignition switch fed battery volts to field rotor and diode trio output to same. These diodes, separate from the main output pairs, are responsible for providing a half phase rectified DC feed to the field circuit by taking a bleed from the alternator stators raw three phase output, allowing the alternator to be self energising. One diode may have gone open circuit reducing field current but leaving enough for alternator to provide sufficient charge current hence voltage to battery under light loads. Is it possible to test the diodes? I don't really want to buy yet another alternator and have exactly the same problem again (the wiper glowing light issue has been the same on both - the sporadic 'full on then off' is a new thing)
1972 4/4 4 seater, 1981 MGB GT 1984 Harley Davidson Electra Glide, 1990 Kawasaki ZX10
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 7,940 Likes: 218
Talk Morgan Guru
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Talk Morgan Guru
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 7,940 Likes: 218 |
Yes just identify them then use multimeter on diode test or continuity, testing each of the three in turn. Each should measure the same but you may need to isolate whilst testing. Note I've added an image above which shows how they are wired.
As I type I've thought of another possibility. Poor connection between ignition switch and warning light. Here the lower than normal volts from battery put a reverse current through the warning light bulb. You could jury rig a feed to warning light bulb direct from battery to prove.
Probably not relevant to your problem but for completeness the bulb glowing brighter with engine revs issue (mentioned above) is usually down to poor battery connection. Here we have lower than normal volts to warning light from ignition switch but higher volts from the diode trio so again current flows in reverse through warning light, increasing as alternator puts out greater volts with increased revs.
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
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Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 6,061 Likes: 160
Talk Morgan Sage
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OP
Talk Morgan Sage
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 6,061 Likes: 160 |
Yes just identify them then use multimeter on diode test or continuity, testing each of the three in turn. Each should measure the same but you may need to isolate whilst testing. Note I've added an image above which shows how they are wired.
As I type I've thought of another possibility. Poor connection between ignition switch and warning light. Here the lower than normal battery volts put a reverse current through the warning light bulb. You could jury rig a feed to warning light bulb direct from battery to prove.
Probably not relevant to your problem but for completeness the bulb glowing brighter with engine revs issue (mentioned above) is usually down to poor battery connection. Here we have lower than normal volts to warning light from ignition switch but higher volts from the diode trio so again current flows in reverse through warning light, increasing as alternator puts out greater volts. Thank you! Please excuse my basic understanding - to test the continuity of the three diodes I should connect one lead of the multimeter to one of the three spade connectors on the alternator - where do I connect the other? I think the connection is the more likely suspect and imagine the feed goes through the dodgy fusebox. Will have a go at the weekend. Engine revs have no effect on the light it's either the dim glow when the wiper is working, or full on.
1972 4/4 4 seater, 1981 MGB GT 1984 Harley Davidson Electra Glide, 1990 Kawasaki ZX10
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Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 7,940 Likes: 218
Talk Morgan Guru
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Talk Morgan Guru
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 7,940 Likes: 218 |
Sorry TBM but can you confirm you have a normal self contained alternator and not the very old Lucas ACR system which has alternator plus three external components, a control unit, dedicated relay and warning light device - as fitted to Mogs 69 - 73 I believe. If the former then some disassembly is required to locate and identify the diode trio. All the diodes (nine in total) typically sit on an insulated board behind the back cover.
Richard
2018 Roadster 3.7 1966 Land Rover S2a 88 2024 Royal Enfield Guerrilla 450 1945 Guzzi Airone
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Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 6,061 Likes: 160
Talk Morgan Sage
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OP
Talk Morgan Sage
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 6,061 Likes: 160 |
It is the self contained 18ACR style.
Been very weird on the way home. Light was on entire journey - about 30% illuminated on start up. Sidelights on, and it went to about 60%. When I gave the windscreen a wash and wipe, went to about 80%. However, when I got to about 3000rpm, it started pulsating/flashing between 60% and 30%. and then would stop when the revs dropped.
Charging was consistent throughout journey, and didn't fluctuate when the lamp was flashing!
1972 4/4 4 seater, 1981 MGB GT 1984 Harley Davidson Electra Glide, 1990 Kawasaki ZX10
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Joined: Jun 2015
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
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Talk Morgan Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,961 Likes: 43 |
Yes just identify them then use multimeter on diode test or continuity, testing each of the three in turn. Each should measure the same but you may need to isolate whilst testing. Note I've added an image above which shows how they are wired.
As I type I've thought of another possibility. Poor connection between ignition switch and warning light. Here the lower than normal battery volts put a reverse current through the warning light bulb. You could jury rig a feed to warning light bulb direct from battery to prove.
Probably not relevant to your problem but for completeness the bulb glowing brighter with engine revs issue (mentioned above) is usually down to poor battery connection. Here we have lower than normal volts to warning light from ignition switch but higher volts from the diode trio so again current flows in reverse through warning light, increasing as alternator puts out greater volts. Thank you! Please excuse my basic understanding - to test the continuity of the three diodes I should connect one lead of the multimeter to one of the three spade connectors on the alternator - where do I connect the other? I think the connection is the more likely suspect and imagine the feed goes through the dodgy fusebox. Will have a go at the weekend. Engine revs have no effect on the light it's either the dim glow when the wiper is working, or full on. Just a thought looking at Richards diagram…if you have difficulty testing the three diodes, why not disconnect the hot wire from the diode triple point to the ignition light and pop a suitable diode in series with it to see if the light goes out when reconnected in that state.
Doug 2011 Plus 4 in Rich Maroon
1972 750 “ComDom” sprinter 1958 Triton 650 1992 Triumph Trophy 900
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Joined: May 2014
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Black Rat Charter Member
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Black Rat Charter Member
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 5,110 Likes: 56 |
Check main earth to chassis, braided cables can get clogged with crap which affects their efficiency.
Keith 2013 narrow bodied + 4 Ruby.
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