Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Maintenance & Servicing 2018 Plus4 GDI won‘t start

Rene.....Sewin is referring to the fuel pump voltage relay, which is energised from the ECU. In 2016 it was underneath the spare wheel plate. I suspect it will still be there on a 2018, so take a look.

This image shows it when the spare wheel plate is removed. It's from a Ford Focus. BHM told me that so far they have not needed to replaced this relay.

Sorry Sewin you are incorrect with your info. On a GDI, if the imobiliser is not unlocked the engine does not turn over. I've just tested in on my 2018 car.

When you get the key near to the lock the imobiliser light goes out which means that you can then start the engine. On a standard setup as Morgan sold the car it is not easy at times to get the car running. I have modified my key to get the "pill" nearer to the sensor ring. With a standard key you often need to hold the "pill" part of the key flat on the sensor ring to unlock the imobiliser, you then have about 30 seconds to get the key in the lock and start the car. Low battery voltage make things even harder.

If you look through other posts on the subject you'll find that DaveW has modified the sensor ring position to make it nearer to the key.
Cheers
John.

Yes John that's exactly right, That's why I suggested he remove the shroud to test it re the immobiliser connecting. the ignition mechanical connection needs to send a signal to wake the fuel injection module and that's why it turns over with no fuel present. This is not just a problem with the Gdi, it started with the 2004 Duratec immobiliser engined car and it is Morgans positioning of the receiver ring that is the main issue.

Hello Dave,

there is also a relay named „Fuel…“ in the fusebox next to the relay „immobilizer“. I changed them in the hope to wizard the electronic bug. This relays are easy to reach and VERY cheap. So I ordered two of them. Now I‘m on the way to the garage and have a look. And a little work. And big hope…

Greets René

The morning was VERY frustrating.

The cam-sensor was wrong. At cylinder 3 the fixingnose of the coil was gone? Than: not shure about the spark plugs, I fit the old ones.

Than changing the relais and than the battery back and connected. No news. He revs, but doesn‘t fire up.

But I fitted my OBD reader. Less than 1V at the ECU? And less than 1V at Lambda sensor 2. So where is the voltage gone?

Next step: having a look at the wires.

But no worries, we‘ll kill the bug… ;-)

Greets René

Not sure I quite understand re the cam sensor at cylinder 3, do you mean there was no spark at plug 3 when there should have been If so see if the coil -on- plug works for no. 3 if fitted in an alternative position , say no. 2 position. Have you also checked the head earth, small bolt at rear of the head. I have seen them with brown or black wire connected. also do a continuity check with the plugs fitted. First check that the earth connection between the body of the plug and head are good, then check the plug electrode top connector is not earthed with the head, ie a shorted plug through an internal breakdown, this will have more of an effect than just causing one cylinder to stop working.

Again, when the engine is turning over is there fuel reaching the cylinders, and when you first turn the ignition on can you hear the fuel system prime to pressure then stop? there has to be either no fuel or no spark Unlikely that you have lost both but not impossible

Rene, yours having direct fuel injection will have a second fuel pump. Unlike my Duratec which is an earlier version. its on the end of the head This is the HPFP or high pressure fuel pump and it has an electrical sensor which plugs into it, check the connections and also the sensor itself can fail. The HPFP is a silver thing on the end of the cam shaft probably under a black plasticky cover.

Look under the end of the plastic inlet manifold and you will see an electrical connection which looks like it goes into the engine side, its just tucked under the plastic manifold end and is easy to see, this is the high pressure fuel sensor and is probably the sensor I would suspect first, again check connections first then the sensor itself.

There will be a further sensor from the tank pump out feed and before the HPFP confirming fuel pressure in the delivery line although I am not sure where it will be located on your car but probably near the fuel safety shut off valve ( check press this shut-off too as they can just shut off for no reason)

If you can't hear the fuel delivery side pressure up when ignition is turned on Its relays, fuses and connectors chack time for the tank pump. Me I would first suspect the connectors, 2 off I believe just separate and re-make initially and that usually sorts a bad connection.

Hello Sewin,

Sorry, I think it‘s a little difficult about my bad english.

In the first steps of diagnostic I found a wet cam-sensor in the area of the earth must be. The sensor is a 25,-EUR part, so I‘ll change it. But: in this area at german MOGs, there is no earth.

Also, when I undo the coils, one connector wouldn‘t disconnect. It was the second coil from the drivers sight. Now, when I fitted it back, I see: the nose for to secure the connector is gone.

About the sparkplugs: I only undo one of them, the no.4 from the drivers sight. It looks nice and dry. But no test about a spark.
You ask: why??? After cancer my heart is a little demaged, so I‘m in fear to do something wrong and be „fired“ myself ;-).

After this small steps done no better result. Engine turning, but doesn‘t fire up. But I connected my OBD Reader and it shows less than 1V at the ECU entrance and less than 1V at the Lambda2.

And: the Immobilzer-Lamp stops flashing when I put the keys near the lock. All keys.

Now I‘ll have a look at the wires (see my new post) where the Volts are missing.

Greets René

Rene, web page can be translated to German....?


https://www.motorreviewer.com/engine.php?engine_id=134

Thank you Luddite,

My english works for the article. But I‘m affraid I need more special informations.

Greets René