Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) More on Brake reaction Stay fitting

Hi Folks,
I have a 2017 4/4 and am setting about fitting Brake reaction stays to it.
However this is what I am faced with on the driver's side- two concerns:
1. The Wing stay is abutting right up against the washers- I cannot see there will be any space for the BRS unless I nip off a corner of the Wing stay?
2. The oiler bolt looks to be off at an angle to the king pin- is that a problem indicating a bent bolt or to be expected?
Just checking the BRS should sit directly ontop of the bracket- then washers then bolt?

Thanks all

Something doesn't look right there.How does it compare to the other side?
I believe the BRB goes on top of the washers and then should automatically sit above the wing stay; but your washers don't look right.
Be aware also that the threads on top of the king pin are very fine and are not easy to catch when replacing the top nut. Could it be that someone in the past has messed up here? Hope not.

Thinking back to previous posts on BRBs a few years back, I seem to recall there was quite a discussion on exactly where the bars should go either above or below washers. Others will no doubt come along soon with more expertise.

Good advice from Doug, compare to the other side

However to my eye that top bolt looks cross threaded, a 2017 will have the domed top (slightly adjustable) kingpins with the two male / female saucer washers at the top, but the very top one looks a bit on the pi55

James, it appears that a previous owner may have assembled the kingpin top bolt incorrectly. Since it needs to be removed anyway to add brake reaction bars (BRB) can I suggest you slightly loosen both top and bottom kingpin fixings before removing this top bolt completely, noting the position of the matching pair of concave and convex washers that fit within each other immediately underneath. Hopefully you will prove this is not cross threaded.

Given the year of your car it will have factory adjustable camber whereby the curved upper end of kingpin sits in a cup formed in the underneath of top support arm and a laterally sliding lug controlled by threaded stud and locknuts at the lower kingpin mount allows pivoting of same to achieve camber change. I mention this because it's relevant to the top kingpin bolt angle hence the dual washers which fit within each other to accomodate this angle dependant on camber setting when tightening down kingpin bolt. Suggest you also loosen the nut/bolt that secures the wing mount to the upper shock absorber plate. This should allow some movement of same which hopefully may ease the fitting affecting the addition of BRB. Worst case remove wing bracket and file corner off although this is not normally necessary.

When each BRB is in position with chassis end loosely tightened and kingpin end resting on upper shock plate the kingpin bolt can be fitted with washer pair located through same, BRB, shock plate, upper suspension mount hole and finally hand started to engage with threads within kingpin below - beware of cross threading! Note the washer pair are formed by convex and concave sides fitting within each other, former at the top and flat sides facing outwards - important they fit immediately below bolt and are well greased. If difficulty found in hand engaging bolt into kingpin threads, loosening lower kingpin nut and even the camber plate will help in allowing kingpin to pivot to a better angle. In the latter case reset camber to noted position on threaded studs before re-tightening everything that was loosened, kingpin bolt first. Note also alignment of grease nipples within bolt. I usually have them facing forwards and slightly outwards for easiest grease gun attachment. If this is seemingly not possible to achieve the whole kingpin can be twisted with lower nut slightly loosened.

When assembled correctly it should look like this, noting the ends of my wing brackets are rounded ex factory.

This is how Williams Automobiles fitted mine to my 2016. 4/4. I hope this helps

Hi, mine are fitted the same as Craig's.

Morning Caveman,

I have posted previously on the best way to fitit BRB's, If you pull my posts by searching sewin you should find them. DaveW has also done an in depth on this subject.

However, Richard has given an excellent account and is a man who has done the job too!
Just some clarification for safety though in case you want to rush out now and start!

The oiler bolt is the top mount for the spring assy. and before you remove it you will need to support the bottom of the hub/pillar with a jack. This has two benefits, the first being it prevents the whole suspension assy. from blowing undone as you are releasing the spring pressure by removing the oiler bolt and the second is that it will keep everything in line for reassembly... realigning the oiler bolt into the top of the pillar is a real pain and the very fine threads allow it to be cross threaded very easily, so hand engage only on refit and be sure its correctly in before using tools! When you remove the oiler bolt immediately insert a suitable screwdriver or punch into the hole as this will act as a safety device should things move and also help with realignment should there be some level of misalignment.

Your problems:

loosen the wing stay as Richard suggested, you will find you have some movement on the slotted hole, also nothing wrong with removing a corner of the stay should you need to, obviously keeping the patency of the structural hole though!

Why does your oiler bolt look out of line? Well it could be for a number of reasons and its a little hard to diagnose from a picture. Usually if it's cross threaded it's almost impossible to wind the whole bolt into the pillar. If you have the original fitment pillars, stainless, they are still fairly hard and if hard chrome have been fitted, well they are really tough! I'm afraid you will only find out when you strip things down. You will need A/F tools here not metric!

The BRB's themselves; good quality options have a welded washer which fits to the oiler bolt end. When I fit them I prepare the outer edge of this end by rounding it off from its square profile following the profile of the washer... DO NOT grind away any of the welded area. when done remove the screwdriver and install the top of the BRB and hand tighten the oiler bolt. Now approximate the chassis end onto the outer return lip of the chassis. push it against the vertical element and mark the chassis line onto the BRB. You will be relieving some of this inboard square edge in order that the hole when drilled into the chassis flange is closer to the vertical chassis element. This prevents weakening the flange which forms the structural strength of the chassis. Don' drill it yet! Now with it all assembled and safe, refit the wheel and check for clearance of the tyre hitting the BRB on full lock. On a wide bodied car this is unnecessary but a narrow bodied 4/4 with taller profile tyres it can be an issue. If this is so PM me as we will have to have an in depth conversation! When you are happy with fit and function its time to drill the chassis. It will need drilling from underneath so clearance is required under the car and my post does explain how to transfer the marked point for drilling from the top to the bottom of the chassis.

Most BRB sets come with fixing bolts, They used to be supplied with shear bolts so that in the event of a front collision the rear bolt would shear minimising chassis damage to that vulnerable flange but I see they now seem to come with high tensile steel options. I'm not happy with that and have been running my plus 4 with 6mm brass bolts and stainless nyloc nuts. I check them every year but they show no signs of deterioration but I change them out anyway in case of fatigue I can't see. Each to their own I suppose!

When you start to crack open the fittings just make sure you leave them still tight then install the holding jack, lift it directly under the hub at the pillar and lift carefully until you just see the outer axle tube of the cross head move vertically and stop. this will position the pillar and secure the suspension for you to carry out the task. Good luck. Its a relatively simple job but you do have to understand the method and how to keep yourself safe.

Thanks Deejay, Cooperman, RicharadV6, Craig Jez, Mark+4 and Sewin. Really helpful stuff.
In response to some of your thoughts:
The Left side is set up the same but the top bolt is sitting "straighter" on its two washers.
I thought it might be tricky so have spent the last few days fitting the Panhard Rod from Mulfab : apart from having to take it off axle stands and putting the car on drive on ramps so I could get my fingers between chassis and leaf springs that all went ok.
I have also ordered an oiler bolt and washers for the BRB fitting just incase there is an issue with the one fitted. Expensive blighters!
No more provarification... I will have a go in the next couple of days and let you know how I get on.

Thanks for your help

James