Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) What Did You Do To Your Morgan Today?

Please don't do that. Dying is very permanent. Use axle stands.
https://www.autoevolution.com/news/...-beloved-1951-triumph-herald-127577.html

Although they didn't help the poor bloke either........

Same here, and can give the kingpins and steering components a good blast without having to raise the front end at all..

In my opinion, ANY grease is better than no grease! If you ask for advice on this forum about lubricants, you will get so many different views that you will be hard pressed to decide what is best. The grease that you have looks like a Molybdenum Disulphide based grease, which some owners use….but some say it can go a little hard with time. I prefer Millers Deltaplex 2 EP, which is a red grease suitable for extreme pressure. (hence the EP)
Others use Red ‘n’ Tacky which is very similar, but whatever you use may well depend on what is available. No rocket science involved.

I prefer to use a “pistol grip” gun that I can operate with one hand, which also has a flexible pipe. I have a “g-coupler” fitted to the pipe which enables secure fitting to the nipple and quick release via a trigger. (available on e bay)

Greasing does not have to be complicated. I grease mine on holiday without any jacking at all. If you turn the steering wheel to the extreme clockwise position, it will expose the right hand lower nipple very near to the bottom of the shock absorber, and anti clockwise, will reveal the left hand one. If you lie on the ground, you will be able to see them and should be able to reach in to wipe with a rag and then attach to the nipple.
The top ones you should be able to feel by putting your hand over the top of the wheel and feeling for it at the top of the kingpin.
Once you have done it, you will wonder what all the worry was about.
By the way, when greasing, the old grease will squeeze out by the stub axle casting so needs wiping away to avoid getting it on to the brake discs.
Good luck.

I was thinking if the lift was just a couple of inches, but I certainly wouldn't want to end up in this poor fellow's situation... And thanks to those who clarified that a lift isn't necessary, that's a huge difference!

Doug, many thanks for this, much appreciated. I can see how a g-coupler could be quite useful (a lot of the commentary seems to revolve around the difficulty of making and keeping a positive connection between the female end of the grease gun and the nipple, this looks like it could make that connection much more positive). And, as noted above, great to understand that lifting the car is not necessary!

Am I right that you basically keep adding grease until you see it coming out of the kingpins? Does it come out the same place for the top and bottom nipple, or is it two different reservoirs?

Thanks again.

It comes out in the same place. The king pin has a hole drilled down from the top to meet with the bottom nipple. Depending on the size of your grease gun, each one might only need 3 or 4 pumps if done regularly.

Adam wolf performance make a remote greasing kit. It works well but you need to crawl underneath to clean up and spanner check things

Doug, John, once again, many thanks for taking the time to answer these low-level questions, invaluable and greatly appreciated!

John, duly noted on the Wolf Performance remote kit. At first it sounded kind of like a no-brainer and I wondered why it wasn't a factory-fit item -- after all, surely not all Morgan owners are in a position to lift their cars every 1000 miles. But now that I understand that access is still reasonably possible without lifting the car and that you need to root around down there to clean things up anyway perhaps I see the logic.

Very best,

Adam.

Adam, yes the reason for jacking front of car up an inch or so to grease is to allow each wheel in turn to be moved easily to gain best access to the two nipples. Turned out at the front onto full lock you should easily see the top grease nipple on the kingpin top bolt. Ideally this should have been fitted to point forward. The lower nipple on the sliding stub axle is a little more difficult to see but is just visible on picture below of stripped down suspension if you zoom in, behind r/h side of caliper support and facing inwards.



In each case a few pumps of grease gun is required finishing job by removing excess grease that will have been pushed out usually from bottom of stub axle. An old long sock helps here. Finally clean disc rotor with brake cleaner.

Highly recommend this quick release grease gun fitting with flexible hose. You dont need to crawl under car to do this job but simply reach in to attach gun to nipple.