Talk Morgan Forums Morgan Sports Cars Classic Morgans (pre-CX) What Did You Do To Your Morgan Today?

IcePack, many thanks. If I may ask, what is the main spring? As I understand it there are two springs in the front suspension, an upper spring and a smaller, lower spring. I assume the main spring is one the upper one of these two, is that right? Thanks again.

Yes on the ground. GoMog is your friend for this stuff. The link is here

Many thanks John!

This image shows components of trad Morgan front suspension Adam.



The oiler feed and steering dampers are legacy features replaced many years ago by upper grease nipple and steering bearing (between bottom of main spring and top of stub axle).

I have had four Morgan's over my twenty one years ownership and both my Plus 8's came to me with the original arrangement for lubrication intact (oiler) and that is the way they'll stay.

As Arwyn has said there is a lot of bollocks spoken about which Red/Green/ Pink grease to use - if you prime the oiler sparingly every 200 miles you'll get at least 40,000 miles out of your king pins, the nearside wearing first as it is subject to regular dousing and picks up most of the road crap in the gutter.

All they need is a constancy of lubrication on the friction bearing surfaces - end of story

Herragud (Swedish for "dear Lord"), John that is an incredibly helpful picture. I'm having a little difficulty picturing where the grease resides: is it that the hub carrier contains the two bushes, and these two bushes ride up and down the kingpin, and there is a void in the hub carrier between the two bushes that contains the grease?

Sorry, meant Richard of course. JohnV6 and RichardV6, each with red Mog avatars, has my lysdexia acting up!

Yes Adam the upper is the main and the lower is the rebound spring. this lower spring does two things, it damps the return of the hub after the upper spring has been compressed and if you go over a pot hole.... or leave the ground for any reason! then it suppresses the upper spring tension from thumping the hub downwards.

Just a further observation re oiler system or grease nipple. There has been a lot of people, less now as most pins have been replaced, who have removed the oiler system from older cars and replaced the oiler bolt or even just fitted a grease nipple into the top of the pin as they found it too messy a system. Well, the old pins designed for oilers had a very narrow gantry way for the oil to travel through and you cannot successfully push grease through it. If you do wish to make this change using old pins then you can push oil through a nipple using a quality grease gun that will accept oil. Use a thick oil though like EP 80 and sparingly! The old oiler system was ok but was often used to heavily and too often and that could cause quite a mess. There were lots of theories back in the day but the best I thought was to use it on start up when the engine oil was cold and for just 3 seconds. The family had an old 4-4 in the 70's and my dad seemed to have it sorted although I did seem to clean it all up on a regular basis. He fitted sleeved nipples at some time while I was away in the Army as something went drastically wrong with the system and it was a lot cleaner after that.

Thank you for the explanation Sewin

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Decided to change the bellows on the steering rack today using Zach's modified design. when I found something unexpected , the mounting clamps for the rack can be fitted two ways, the two halfs of each clamp are different , so you can mount the rack slightly further forward or nearer the chassis,

On my 1985 car it had one 10mm forward of the other, meaning the rack was not square to the chassis, it must have been like this since it left the factory,(I have had the car nearly 40yrs and only me working on it). When I had the rack off previously I stamped the mounting blocks so they were mounted as they came off.

Its a mystery.. so should the clamps mount the rack nearest the chassis or slightly away from it?

DB